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Jolt Cola 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Ken Trout, December, 1993. roof finish, Mark Rolofson, 2000
Page Views: 4,493
Submitted By: Walt Wehner on Nov 2, 2001
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Ian racing the sun up Jolt Cola.
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  • Description 

    This is one of my favorite sport routes in Boulder Canyon and one of the pumpiest under-vertical climbs I've ever done. It's the middle route of 3 that are located about 50 yards uphill and right (up the gully) from "Bolt Cola" and "Where Eagles Dare". For me, there are several distinct cruxes, some of which are pump-induced as you get higher. It is well-protected, sustained, and on perfect rock. I might even argue that it's hard for the grade, at least on the onsight (and I'm a notorious sandbagger). If slightly slabby climbing isn't your forte, be warned: you'll find few good holds on this route.


    Protection 

    7 bolts, I think. All you need are QDs.



    Photos of Jolt Cola Slideshow Add Photo
    Scott karate-kicking his way to a flash (sans roof extension). Photo: Clayton Laramie. <br />
    Scott karate-kicking his way to a flash (sans roof...
    Orange Crush, Respite, Jolt Cola, and Ginseng Rush.
    BETA PHOTO: Orange Crush, Respite, Jolt Cola, and Ginseng Rush...
    A long reach for a hidden jug gets you started on the roof.
    A long reach for a hidden jug gets you started on ...
    Starting up the overhanging final crux of Jolt.
    Starting up the overhanging final crux of Jolt.
    Greg has finished the first crux via the right hand variation which climbs a couple feet further right of Greg's feet then up and back left. The left variation ends up with the right foot where Greg's left foot is, pulling right over the bulge down and left of Greg.
    Greg has finished the first crux via the right han...
    It's starting to ease up by a letter grade or so, but it may not feel like it due to the pump.
    It's starting to ease up by a letter grade or so, ...
    This wide stem is a decent rest. Greg's left foot is on a key hold on the left hand variation.
    This wide stem is a decent rest. Greg's left foot ...
    Greg has the first jug and is reaching for the second jug. After that, feet up and left and figure out how to get past the final overhang. Did the original route climb further right where the bolts are, perhaps via the finger crack at the lip and a jug up and right of that?
    Greg has the first jug and is reaching for the sec...
    Kirk Miller took this picture of Mark Rolofson just above the first crux.  The old route to the first anchor took me five days to scrub and bolt, alone, often in the dark, after work.  Mark put in the cool roof finish several years later.   <br /> <br />I used to always say that a bolter's reward for doing a new route was listening to others complain about it.  But you guys have really spoiled me with your positive comments.  Thank you very much! <br /> <br /> <br /> <br />
    Kirk Miller took this picture of Mark Rolofson jus...
    Starting the crux sequence. Photo: Clayton Laramie.
    Starting the crux sequence. Photo: Clayton Laramie...
    A great finger lock and a good rest. Yet another hard move leads back right into the corner.
    A great finger lock and a good rest. Yet another h...
    Comments on Jolt Cola Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 13, 2009
    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Nov 5, 2001

    I think there is an extension which makes for a really long pitch through a roof at the top. I agree with the rating but there are apparently two ways to do it, on the right being "easier." I went left and fell onsighting. I looked at the right way and couldn't do it. Even on redpoint it felt very hard for the grade.

    By Walt Wehner
    Nov 5, 2001

    Yeah, you can keep going through the roof. I was way too pumped to even consider it by the time I got to the anchors. Supposedly (according to Rossiter) you can climb to the right below the third bolt and avoid the crux. I haven't tried it that way, though. I'd say it's harder than a number of the 12b or c routes at Clear Creek, so an accurate grade might be closer to 12b. That's my story, and I'm sticking to it, unless someone thinks of a better excuse for the butt-kicking I got on this route. Good to hear that at least one other person thought it was hard.

    By Anonymous Coward
    Dec 20, 2001

    Excellent tech fest which seems dubiously hard on the first go. Linking both pitches is my recommended approach, however, beware of rope drag in the crack above the roof while lowering off ( rap probably best ). Fun and sustained, it will feel much steeper than it looks....

    By Anonymous Coward
    Sep 23, 2002

    Excellent route, it's not harder than 12a, especially when compared to Respite, The New Ticket, or Ginseng Rush on Blob. I think the Rolofson guide book still calls the direct start 11c, which might be a little soft. Either way, a great pitch on clean granite.

    By Fred Vanden Bergh
    Oct 21, 2002

    I just want to echo how great this route is. It's rare to find a route that is fun, quality, and has you thinking from the very first move to the very last...and both variations of Jolt Cola offer exactly that. The 12a variation has harder single moves, but the 11c path (to the right) is more sustained. Great climbing. One option is to lead the 11c variation, then set up a TR on the 12a on the rap if you don't feel like leading the 12. Awesome route! (Oh, and the ratings feel accurate to me, if anyone gives two squats).

    By tobias
    From: CO
    Jan 4, 2003

    The right variation on the lower half (11c) makes for more varied climbing--a traverse right then back left once again towards the third bolt... Watch out for a hard fast pendululum if you come off! I disagree with the route description--that there aren't many good holds--there are. And when you figure out the sequence, it goes nicely. A definite three star climb in my book!

    By adam brink
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 17, 2003

    My buddie, Aaron Cloud, and I did this route the other day and were both well impressed with its quality. Well it is an excellent climb, the direct version (going straight from bolt to bolt, in good obedient sport climbing style) never felt harder than 11d. After every hard sequence, which were never more than 2 or 3 moves long, there was an jug to shake out on. A great climb and a good warm-up for the harder routes up the gully.

    By Ken Trout
    From: Golden, CO
    Dec 14, 2007

    FIRST ASCENT: Ken Trout, December, 1993. It took five nights, after work, using a headlamp, to bolt and scrub this ugly duckling just to the first anchor.

    Mark Rolofson added the finish up the roof, 2000.

    By Rob Kepley
    From: Westminster,CO
    Dec 21, 2007
    rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

    One of the better routes in BC. Ridiculously hard onsight for the grade. Once you figure it out though it flows really well.

    By slim
    Administrator
    Jan 31, 2008
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

    Only did first pitch, sun going down and pretty cold. We did leftish variation between 3rd and 4th bolt. Odd bolt placements here kind of throw off the flow. There were several chalk dots where it almost looks like somebody is thinking of moving the 3rd and 4th bolts slightly left. This would kind of improve the climbing as the clipping wouldn't detract quite so much. First pitch felt pretty accurately graded in Rolofson's guide at 11c/d. Tricky, technical, but nor really too pumpy.

    I'd give first pitch 3 stars. 4 stars if 4th bolt (in particular) was moved to the left about a foot. Good times!

    By Kevin Neilson
    From: Boulder
    Aug 28, 2008

    This is a difficult route to onsight and is much easier the second time. I tried P1 a couple of years ago and took many hangs working through the crux. Yesterday I tried again and remembered enough to RP relatively easily. After clipping #3, I tend leftward and then move both feet up and right to set up a layback. Palming the small, right-facing (and somewhat downward-pointing) dihedral with the right hand, I layback up onto the right foot; then I can clip #4. A delicate foot match and right stem allows you to reach the right crack.

    This time I also attempted the super-pumpy roof extension, which you can do in one pitch and still reach the ground with a 60m. After clipping #2, I entered the roof by reaching up with the right and getting the tips onto the block. I didn't see the "hidden jug" for the left hand mentioned in the captions of the photos. After clipping #3 from the block, I could get the right fingers into a poor crack at the top of the roof and stand on the block. It's still hard to get over the roof, as I found after sliding off. A stem with right foot gets you over.

    By claramie
    From: Boulder, CO
    Nov 13, 2009

    Link it into the roof above for a fun full-value pitch! Might want to rig a tension rap to save your rope though... anyone know what that upper roof pitch is? is it P2 of this or another name? thanks!