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Upper Major Mass & Jungle Gym Tower
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Jolly Roger 
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Jolly Roger 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,998
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Jan 26, 2002
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Kyle Broadderick with a fatty send of Jolly Roger....


The Jolly Roger is a fun climb with a great crack system. Start the climb by surmounting a 5 foot slab. Once on top of the slab climb the flat face with a series of cracks in it. The bottom of the face has a slight overhang, but it becomes vertical and then less than vertical as you climb higher. Use some fist jams and finger moves to get up this crack. The crux is near the middle of the climb in a smooth blank niche that requires a less-than-sure foot smear.

To get to the top of the Jolly Roger, hike along the Devil's Doorway Trail and take the short scenic trail that dips down to the famous Devil's Doorway formation. There is a staircase that passes between two short walls of rock on the east end of this short trail. If you walk down these stairs you will see an outcropping straight ahead. The Jolly Roger faces southwest off the end of this outcropping.

To get to the bottom of the climb from here, walk back up the stairs discussed earlier and take a right (east) down the slope through the woods (before you get back to the main Devil's Doorway Trail). This is the gully that sits between the Major Mass and Minor Mass. Hug the rock on your right and pass right (south) through the first "saddle" you see. Go through the saddle and turn right again (west) with the rock still to your right. You are now on the ledge that separates the Upper and Lower bands of the Major Mass. In Swartling's book on diagram 33E, page 141, you are standing somewhere between the words "Access" and "Angel's Traverse". Scramble west about 100 feet until you get to the base of the climb.


Standard Rack

Photos of Jolly Roger Slideshow Add Photo
Ryan on Jolly Roger.
Ryan on Jolly Roger.
Chris Durand
Chris Durand
Jolly Roger
BETA PHOTO: Jolly Roger
cool photo
cool photo
In this picture Harris is actually climbing on Angel's Crack But its a good picture of the top part of Jolly Roger
In this picture Harris is actually climbing on Ang...
Harris is climbing Angels Crack but its also a nice picture of Jolly Roger.
Harris is climbing Angels Crack but its also a nic...
Mike Sohasky on the upper part of JR
Mike Sohasky on the upper part of JR
Dorie Georgantes. Photo by Woodchuck
Dorie Georgantes. Photo by Woodchuck
Following the Jungle Dog up Jolly Roger
Following the Jungle Dog up Jolly Roger
Idan leading and getting his Jolly's on 4-28-07.
Idan leading and getting his Jolly's on 4-28-07.
Third pitch of a very nice fall weather Wednesday (playing hooky from work and school) hook up in the Major Mass area.  Dylan Colon onsight leads "The Jolly Roger".
Third pitch of a very nice fall weather Wednesday ...
Comments on Jolly Roger Add Comment
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By Anonymous
Apr 24, 2002

One of my favorite leads for the grade at Devil's Lake. Fun climibng with really good exposure and lots of gear.

By Jay Knower
From: Plymouth, NH
Apr 29, 2002

There was a great picture of this route in Rock and Ice a few years back.

By Tom Anderson-Brown
From: Madison, WI
Sep 20, 2002

My directions for getting to this climb are a little off in the route description. Instead of heading right through the first saddle while descending the gully, you should look for the third saddle. This will take you towards a pine tree with a horizontal dead branch that sticks out about 4 feet to the left. Duck under this branch and turn slightly right after passing it. This will lead you to Jolly Roger, Angel's Crack, Cedar Tree Wall, Mary Jane, Split Decision, Indecision, etc.

By wayniak
May 3, 2003

This is a classic Devil's Lake route. Fun, steep, exposure, and good pro to boot.

By Doug Hemken
Sep 8, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Great lead. Gear from 1/4" to 2". I think the crux is at the bottom, myself.

By Ryan Strong
From: Golden, CO
Apr 16, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

one of the most exposed climbs at the lake

By Tradoholic
Aug 5, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

This is one of the best protected climbs at the lake and with absolutely classic moves.