Jolly Rancher 5.10
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| Type: | Trad |
| Consensus: | 5.10b/c [details] |
| FA: | Steve Hong |
| Submitted By: | Ben F on Mar 23, 2002 |
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Good view of just about the whole route (it's a lo...
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Description Yet another sexy crack at the Creek. To find this beauty, head WAY right when you reach the wall. Just before a drop-off is this spitter appears. It is long... It also has a few pods in it and meanders a little. When I climbed the route, there was a plaque at its base (just in case you can't recognize this good crack). This climb has been given an R rating by some because of a blocky section. Most of this short section is solid and will protect. Also, a second bolt is at the anchor now to supplement the FA's creative metal work.
Jolly Rancher begins as tight hands (2 Friend/1Camalot) and slowly widens. The majority of this pitch was cupped hands (wide 3 Friend/tight 3 Camalot). Worry not - cupped hands make for good feet. Towards the top, the size narrows to fingers at the somewhat blocky section and foot holds appear on the last bit.
Protection Gear required for this pitch ranges from 3/4 to 4 inches. Bring 3 or 4 pieces in the 2 to 2.5" range, at least 6 3" pieces, at least 3 3.5" pieces and save a second 1" piece to back-up the belay. This route is about 140' and requires 2 ropes for the rap.
Reese geeting into the "good" part
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Marlene climbing
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Jolly Rancher, Indian Creek
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jolly rancher
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| Comments on Jolly Rancher |
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By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Oct 3, 2006
| I do not think this route is "R" rated. The blocky section up top is about 10ft. long and can safely be protected both before and after it. Be sure to bring double ropes for this route. a 70meter rope will leave you about 15ft. off the deck even with stretch. |
By Danny Inman
From: Arvada
Dec 6, 2006
rating: 5.10
| Very nice route, if #3 BDs are your size, get on this thing. As for the "R", no way this is an R. As Jason Haas said, bomber gear below and immediately after the blocky section. |
By Bjorn
From: Near Joshua Tree
Jul 21, 2008
| Great route description. Can't wait to hit it. |
By mikejohnson1
From: Essex Junction, VT
Oct 20, 2009
rating: 5.10c
| Best route in the Creek. 150ft of varied climbing. Thin hands, perfect hands, wide hands, fingers, ringlocks, even a little offwidth. Probably the best route i have ever climbed. Make sure to bring some small stuff for the top (single set of camalots from .3 to .75 ought to do). |
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 9, 2009
| agree that this route has slammer gear the whole way up it. no chance it is R rated |
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 12, 2010
rating: 5.10
| Since it is confusing, as Camalots are not "inch-sized" a majority of the 3-3.5" pieces that could be placed are fine with #3 camalots. A few placements are better with #3 friends, but nothing larger is required at all.
I also agree that the route is not R rated. A leader should be advised not to put a cam in behind the first flake down low, becuase if it caught a fall, I think it would pop (a 1000# wedge shaped flake kept in by dirt and rockchips) and kill a few people, starting with the climber hanging below it and then, after cutting the rope, pootentially going on to crush anyone at the base...
The route is not runout, but not for the foolish, either.
The route is close to 150' tall. Take a rope nad a tag line when leading. This also allows you to pull up more rack on the tag line if you decide you need it. |
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Sep 14, 2010
| best single pitch i've climbed in the desert. |
By Dane Casterson
From: Boulder
Mar 5, 2011
| So good. Just keeps getting better the higher you climb. |
By S Denny
From: Carbondale, CO
Nov 30, 2012
| my sterling (read: long) 80m got down with 5 feet to spare |
By Colter
Nov 30, 2012
| so good. lowered easy with 80m. crux off the deck thin hands? maybe for me. |
By Rob Dillon
From: '81 Sunrader
Mar 24, 2013
| Some wankstain tossed the plaque. When will it end? |
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