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Unsorted Routes:

Jolly Rancher 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Steve Hong
Page Views: 8,613
Submitted By: Ben F on Mar 23, 2002

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Good view of just about the whole route (it's a lo...

Description 

Yet another sexy crack at the Creek. To find this beauty, head WAY right when you reach the wall. Just before a drop-off is this spitter appears. It is long... It also has a few pods in it and meanders a little. When I climbed the route, there was a plaque at its base (just in case you can't recognize this good crack). This climb has been given an R rating by some because of a blocky section. Most of this short section is solid and will protect. Also, a second bolt is at the anchor now to supplement the FA's creative metal work.

Jolly Rancher begins as tight hands (2 Friend/1Camalot) and slowly widens. The majority of this pitch was cupped hands (wide 3 Friend/tight 3 Camalot). Worry not - cupped hands make for good feet. Towards the top, the size narrows to fingers at the somewhat blocky section and foot holds appear on the last bit.


Protection 

Gear required for this pitch ranges from 3/4 to 4 inches. Bring 3 or 4 pieces in the 2 to 2.5" range, at least 6 3" pieces, at least 3 3.5" pieces and save a second 1" piece to back-up the belay. This route is about 140' and requires 2 ropes for the rap.



Photos of Jolly Rancher Slideshow Add Photo
jolly rancher
jolly rancher
holy crap this route has a lot of hand jams...
holy crap this route has a lot of hand jams...
Breaking into the Jolly Rancher
Breaking into the Jolly Rancher
Jolly Rancher, Indian Creek
Jolly Rancher, Indian Creek
Jolly Rancher anchors.
Jolly Rancher anchors.
Marlene climbing
Marlene climbing
more hand jams
more hand jams
hand jams
hand jams
Reese geeting into the "good" part
Reese geeting into the "good" part
the sweets
the sweets
Rick coming up Jolly Rancher.
Rick coming up Jolly Rancher.
Jolly Rancher.
Jolly Rancher.
right before I fell off...fingers
right before I fell off...fingers
Rick coming up Jolly Rancher.
Rick coming up Jolly Rancher.
Comments on Jolly Rancher Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 13, 2013
By Anonymous Coward
Nov 4, 2004

Hong route.

By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Oct 3, 2006

I do not think this route is "R" rated. The blocky section up top is about 10ft. long and can safely be protected both before and after it. Be sure to bring double ropes for this route. a 70meter rope will leave you about 15ft. off the deck even with stretch.

By Danny Inman
From: Arvada
Dec 6, 2006
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Very nice route, if #3 BDs are your size, get on this thing. As for the "R", no way this is an R. As Jason Haas said, bomber gear below and immediately after the blocky section.

By Bjorn
From: Near Joshua Tree
Jul 21, 2008

Great route description. Can't wait to hit it.

By mikejohnson1
From: Essex Junction, VT
Oct 20, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Best route in the Creek. 150ft of varied climbing. Thin hands, perfect hands, wide hands, fingers, ringlocks, even a little offwidth. Probably the best route i have ever climbed. Make sure to bring some small stuff for the top (single set of camalots from .3 to .75 ought to do).

By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 9, 2009

agree that this route has slammer gear the whole way up it. no chance it is R rated

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 12, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Since it is confusing, as Camalots are not "inch-sized" a majority of the 3-3.5" pieces that could be placed are fine with #3 camalots. A few placements are better with #3 friends, but nothing larger is required at all.

I also agree that the route is not R rated. A leader should be advised not to put a cam in behind the first flake down low, becuase if it caught a fall, I think it would pop (a 1000# wedge shaped flake kept in by dirt and rockchips) and kill a few people, starting with the climber hanging below it and then, after cutting the rope, pootentially going on to crush anyone at the base...
The route is not runout, but not for the foolish, either.

The route is close to 150' tall. Take a rope nad a tag line when leading. This also allows you to pull up more rack on the tag line if you decide you need it.

By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Sep 14, 2010

best single pitch i've climbed in the desert.

By Dane Casterson
From: Boulder
Mar 5, 2011

So good. Just keeps getting better the higher you climb.

By S Denny
From: Carbondale, CO
Nov 30, 2012

my sterling (read: long) 80m got down with 5 feet to spare

By Colter
Nov 30, 2012

so good. lowered easy with 80m. crux off the deck thin hands? maybe for me.

By Rob Dillon
Mar 24, 2013

Some wankstain tossed the plaque. When will it end?

By BFK
From: San Francisco
Nov 13, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Definitely one of the best routes I've ever done and the best route I did during my trip to the creek. Long, sustained and yet has several defined cruxy sections to keep you focused.