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Jolly Jugular 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,577
Submitted By: Lance Bischoff on Jul 5, 2003

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BETA PHOTO: Jolly Jugular w/ 5.7 finish

Closed! - Now reopened MORE INFO >>>


Lance, Bill Parmenter, Robbie Mitchell. Certainly climbed before- located in and just right of dark, deep crack by dihedral far left of Pine Away, right of Armas Daj, and barely to right of 5.10 bolted line on face before it bends to a dihedral corner.

P1. Climb on the face (or mix with crack moves, some vegetation though) just right of the deep crack up marvelous flakes and jugs 100+ feet to sculpted and rounded intersection of bouldered features under a small roof. Nestled in this "ledge" are slightly flared channels/troughs that offer skilled placement opportunities using a combo of several larger nuts, cams, or Tri-cams.

P2. The final pitch is 40-50 foot left and upward slanted traverse with great lieback up to the same pine tree that sits atop Armas Daj. The tree has a huge rap ring if you have two 60m ropes. Our party chose the 4th class scramble up and to right (10 foot ascent on traverse behind a horn) to summit and do the walk-off. The route on whole is well-protected, but not as many easy placements as Staircase. However, runners can enhance as pro on the many flakes present. A generous length cordellete is recommended for the pro you'll need at the belay station. Steeper than most 5.5's, and thin enough on feet, occasionally, to justify the 5.6. For hands, it is a jug fest! We'll be happy to rename for the FA party if claimed, but we haven't seen this route in beta. In photo 230, Jolly Jugular is just 5-6 feet left of the man on rappel. Enjoy! We all rate it 3 stars!


Conservative Trad rack fine, and some runners for natural flakes. Larger cams, tri-cams and/or large stoppers for belay station with cordellette recommended. No existing bolts or anchors, pine tree at top, however it's fine!

Photos of Jolly Jugular Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Dark dihedral in center of photo marks route.  Str...
Dark dihedral in center of photo marks route. Str...
Rock Climbing Photo: Various finishes heading up left
Various finishes heading up left
Rock Climbing Photo: First pitch face work
First pitch face work
Rock Climbing Photo: Just belay belay area for traverse up.
Just belay belay area for traverse up.
Rock Climbing Photo:

Comments on Jolly Jugular Add Comment
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By Betty Barnett
Dec 17, 2003

This climb is a lot of fun!!! It is a great one for fairly new climbers. It is the first trad climb I did as a second and I am now hooked on trad climbs. I had been climbing only a few times before trying this this past summer. There were two spots, that at 5'2", were challenging. The taller people had no problems with them. For beginners it's a chance to practice many different climbing techniques. I highly recommend this climb for anyone just wanting to do a fun climb.
By Buff Johnson
Jan 19, 2006
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Fun jugfest dihedral. The .7 finish variant was fun too. Rope drag to the tree is a bitch - climbed this 4-5 times, can't get rid of the damned drag. I used 60M to get to the tree - probably the cause of the drag problem is going for the tree, but it's such a good anchor.

This climb is less intimidating than the flakey Armaj Das is for a new trad leader.
By shad O'Neel
Jun 10, 2006

This has been very well bolted. I guess it's safe now.
By Buff Johnson
Jun 12, 2006
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Are you f'n kidding me? A completely protectable 5.6?? I reckon someone else felt the same, I hear it's been cleaned.

I hope other good natural lines in the canyon don't feel the same pain.
By Larry M Shaw
Aug 12, 2006

Climbed this one today, an excellent first lead. It felt easier than the Staircase. Pro was fine and could be stitched up if needed.
By Lance Bischoff
Apr 23, 2007

Thanks, Bob, for the update. Geezamaneeza folks! A moderate, even non-expensive rack, can protect this route. In fact, it is an excellent route to practice placing pro - cams, chocks, nuts, tri-cams, runners - you name it. So, thank you to the bolt remover, whoever you are...there is no need to bolt up a route with generous placement opportunities. I spotted this route specifically as a TRAD is, and should remain that way. Thanks again, enjoy!
By Nate Oakes
Aug 27, 2007

Agreed that this route is easy to place all kinds of pro, we even slinged a few horns on the way up. Bolts would have been ridiculous, thanks to whoever removed them. Great for a mellow climb, and a good first lead. I'd give it three stars if it weren't for the vegetation.
By Rick2009
Jun 30, 2010

So, it is a good thing that someone tore down bolts and damaged the rock even more then the person that put the route up? That is REALLY nice! So, thank the bolt remover when they close the area to climbing.

You people don't think! Rock is rock and climbing is climbing. NOBODY OWNS routes reguardless of how long they have been climbing or with who.
By Buff Johnson
Jun 30, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

And beer is beer; but it's better when shared with friends.

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