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Joke the Chicken 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 350'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: T. Kelley, Matt Gentling, Christian Robert - 1990
Page Views: 955
Submitted By: Br'er Rabbit on May 27, 2009

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Description 

P1: climb 100' (yes, 100') to the first bolt over 5.7 face/slab, then past another couple bolts to big horizontal, belay here.

P2: Climb up from the horizontal to a flake and roof. Load the flake with small TCUs and/or tricams, maybe a stopper (anything that will fit), and get ready to do work. Pull the roof into the watergroove (strenuous and technical), then work up to the bolt on the left. Clip this and make a sigh of relief. Climb up the steep water groove past a few bolts and some gear to a bolted belay. Rappel.


Location 

Far left end of the crag. Second route from the end.


Protection 

Couple QDs, a screamer or two, light rack to #2 Camalot.



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By nbrown
From: western NC
Oct 25, 2013

Ben, this thing is definitely harder than 8+ -- it's rated 9+ in both guidebooks. I finally did it today, and I'd say it's probably harder (and a little more dangerous) than most of the low 10's at BG.

Didn't bring any big cams on P-2 and had to pass up some good placements above the overlap before the first bolt. Bring a cam in the #2-#4 range for this section (I used mine in the belay below). Also, I found tricams really useful out on the face above the last bolt.

All in all a fun line, but fairly dangerous because of the low angle slab you'll hit if you blow the crux.

By Ezra Ellis
Oct 26, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X

Have to agree with Nathan on this one, you also need a #3 camalot for the belay.
Fairly fun route if you don't have to lead it or don't mind getting hurt!!!

By Br'er Rabbit
From: The Deeper South
Oct 28, 2013

Nathan, I cede to your opinion on the grade and will revise....I don't mean to downplay this route, at all....it's a heads up route for sure.

We didn't place anything bigger than a #2 in the P1 belay either time I've been on this, but I can see a #3 working. Likewise, larger pieces up high might work, but we didn't use them and I definitely don't remember seeing any before the first bolt.... My friend Paul thought he was going to fall out of the groove onto me and my brother the first time we got on this...he didn't find any gear above the overlap and I haven't subsequently. Maybe we missed it.

Also, yeah, tricams are mandatory gear for BG, LK, and other Panthertown areas....don't leave home without them.

By nbrown
From: western NC
Oct 28, 2013

The belay could be built from just about anything. I used the bigger cams there because the write-up here said tcu's for P-2 (didn't use any). TK guide says bring extra big cams (read this in the guide after I did the route). Guess I should have looked beforehand...

Edit: Thanks for posting the route - I just wanted to point out some additional info that could be very helpful.

By Br'er Rabbit
From: The Deeper South
Oct 28, 2013

Nathan, the recommendation for TCUs/small cams is for loading up the flake before you pull into the groove. I remember some really good yellow and orange TCUs there.