Joint Venture 

This is a great climb, but the fledgling (flailing?) 5.11 leader might want to bring at least one mid size nut or a #3 or 4 Metolius size for the run from bolts 6 to 7 (counting clipping the lower anchor as a 'bolt'). I found it a little much for my taste, as the climbing got harder there, and the reach was a bit much for my 5'6" self. Otherwise a great route with fun moves below and again up higher.

I seem forever to be in the role of guide book writer. If I go to Manhattan, people stop me and ask how to get to the Trade Towers. As for Joint Venture, the name is a play on Cannabis Sportiva, and on the fact that I did this originally with Leah Macaluso. Leah, being rather short, hated the upper arete. She was my massage therapist as well as a lovely climbing partner. Dan Hare had nothing to do with this route. Leah and I started in the narrow dihedral in the left of the photo via gear, then climbed the arete to the right of Dan''s route. Do you people read guides books or just make this stuff up? Dan's route climbs the steep face just right of the initial arete then takes the upper dihedral just left of the upper arete of Joint Venture. Dan's route is called Feeding the Beast and is rated overall, 12a. The name may be a reference to Dan's insatiable lust for setting new routes.

I listed Dan's route on this website as "Beast Food" which is what Rolofson's book calls it. I also gave it the 12b rating that Rolofson listed.

And as a point of clarification, I think this beta photo is a bit misleading - the anchors shown here are actually the anchors for Beast Food.You have to stay right to get to the anchors of Joint Venture.

All that aside, Joint Venture is a really fun line on nice stone!

This route can be climbed as an easy 5.10 or maybe an 5.11a, depending upon the line taken. On the upper section, where it follows the arete it is also possible to set right into the dihedral there (still within clipping reach) and stem/palm to the right to pass the crux on the arete.

If you're thinking of linking up the first part of Joint Venture with Cannabis Sportiva, don't! It's certainly possibly with long slings, but it's not worth the risk to your belayer. There are some gnarly loose blocks in between the two routes that you must traverse across.

Fun route with a thin start and some good steming on the upper "pitch". Easily done as one pitch with a 60m and minor rope drag. Nice climb.

ALERT: If you climb this to the bolted anchor and then climb 'Cannabis Sportiva', there is a big, TV-sized, loose block about 6' left of the anchor sitting on a ledge. It looks like a great hand jam behind it to make the traverse but - DO NOT PULL ON IT!! We would have thrown this to the ground, but were worried about it eventually rolling to the highway. It certainly needs to come off though.

IMHO, the lower section goes at 5.10+ for those interested. Watch your rope around the arete and you might want one smallish cam to get to the anchors. Green or Yellow alien.

Does anyone know anything about the new bolt line that leaves Joint Venture and goes directly over the roof?

The second pitch if staying in the crack is pretty stout. I believe it is said to be 5.12.

It felt pretty darn hard. You can easily finish the route or choose to just climb the arete skipping this crack. Sure is fun climbing though. Really fun as one long pitch no matter how you finish it.

If only there were about 100' of the lower face! Great route anyway.

Re: Robb M.

Blockhead .12+.

Thanks for the beta Joshua!

A bit inconsistent, but good times, nonetheless. I didn't find the supposed 5.10 moves around the cruxes, but the 11a move down low and the one up top are each just one-move wonders.

One thing: I don't understand climbing just the first "pitch," which is only about as tall as Dennis Rodman. Unless you have an old-school, 37ft rope, you should probably think about taking the WHOLE line, young leader. The second "pitch" is wholly different, but just as good, with a little spice if'n you don't have monkey arms. And the overhanging top out jug fest is about as fun a finish as you can ask for.

And forget the cams--you don't need them for the cruxes. While JV may not be littered with bolts like the rest of Boulder Canyon, it still protects plenty well where you need it with the clips at hand.

We pulled a tiny post-thaw flake off just above the second bolt, but it didn't seem to impact the climb.

From above the first bolt to the area just left and under the roof, this climb requires balance and technique more than it requires strength or crimping.

Don't be scared off by the consensus grade. If you climb in the 10s regularly, you'll be able to do this climb.

Maybe I was having a rough day, but this route caught me ofFguard.

I think I missed a clutch hold or something, 'cause I had to so some high-brow fandangaling on nail-y stubs to get up the bottom section.

I hope next time I climb it, I'll have a "a-ha!" moment followed by a face-palm.