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joining lines for rappel
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Mar 21, 2014
I know thus has been discussed to death but anyone ever joined a 7.5 dynamic half/twin rope with a 10mm single for rappelling purposes?

If so edk or fishermans?
jeb013
From Portland
Joined Jul 31, 2012
14 points
Mar 21, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Doing the jump-across off The Mace.  I never get t...
IMHO don't use an EDK, the ropes are too drastically different sizes. Use a grapevine (double or triple fishermans), Fig 8 on a bight w/retraced 8, or a sheep bend. HTH. Mike
From Phoenix
Joined May 16, 2006
2,769 points
Mar 21, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: CoR
edk is quicker and has less chance of snagging. I like to tie two back to back with a one foot tail just because. rging
From Salt Lake City, Ut
Joined Jul 18, 2011
200 points
Mar 22, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Coming down Donner Ridge after climbing Blitzen Ri...
I'm not convinced that tying two EDK's makes it any less likely to snag than a fisherman's. Any EDK fear is irrational. See rgold's posts in this thread.

mountainproject.com/v/joining-...
Ryan Nevius
From The Range of Light
Joined Dec 29, 2010
844 points
Mar 22, 2014
Yr fine

Rock Climbing Photo: DAV 2005
DAV 2005


Leave 2 feet of tail, and if yr really worried use 2 EDKs snug

;)
bearbreeder
Joined Mar 1, 2009
3,068 points
Mar 22, 2014
Have regularly joined a 6mm with a 10+mm using the EDK. The failure mode is the EDK capsizes towards the tails. 18 inch tails. Tied so the skinny has to roll over the fat to capsize. Lately I also tie a backup knot with skinny tail around the fat tail. Bill Lawry
From New Mexico
Joined Apr 16, 2006
1,705 points
Mar 22, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Coming down Donner Ridge after climbing Blitzen Ri...
Bill Lawry wrote:
Have regularly joined a 6mm with a 10+mm using the EDK. The failure mode is the EDK capsizes towards the tails. 18 inch tails. Tied so the skinny has to roll over the fat to capsize. Lately I tie backup knot with skinny tail around the fat tail.


Good photos of this in the thread I linked to above.
Ryan Nevius
From The Range of Light
Joined Dec 29, 2010
844 points
Mar 22, 2014
Agreed. Excellent photos in that thread. Bill Lawry
From New Mexico
Joined Apr 16, 2006
1,705 points
Mar 22, 2014
Ryan Nevius wrote:
Good photos of this in the thread I linked to above.


Hi, do you know of any pull test data that compares the two ways of tying it as shown in the photos? And do we know how they tied it in the DAV test?
Thanks.
David Coley
From UK
Joined Oct 26, 2013
65 points
Mar 22, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: The traverse out to the Yellow Ridge on the Dogsti...
I don't know of comparisons. There is this: mountainproject.com/v/edk-dest... rgold
From Poughkeepsie, NY
Joined Feb 15, 2008
512 points
Administrator
Mar 22, 2014
jeb013 wrote:
I know thus has been discussed to death

So why bring it up again, as opposed to just using the search box? You are right, this has been covered a million times, and every answer made in this post so far has already been made by someone else in a duplicate thread. But in short, yes you can join dissimilar diameters.
20 kN
From Hawaii
Joined Feb 2, 2009
1,009 points
Mar 22, 2014
Tell me how to search using the app. I haven't figured it out yet.

jeb
jeb013
From Portland
Joined Jul 31, 2012
14 points
Mar 22, 2014
I doesn't matter at this point. I'm home and it worked exactly how those that responded with information said it would.

Thanks for your help. ;)
jeb013
From Portland
Joined Jul 31, 2012
14 points
Mar 23, 2014
How do subject like this get brought up all the time. And pull testing?? Wtf are you rappelling with a cow or something lol Kyro
Joined Apr 4, 2013
5 points
Mar 23, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Coming down Donner Ridge after climbing Blitzen Ri...
Kyro wrote:
How do subject like this get brought up all the time. And pull testing?? Wtf are you rappelling with a cow or something lol


Based on the average weight of an adult, male steer, it's likely you'd still be fine.
Ryan Nevius
From The Range of Light
Joined Dec 29, 2010
844 points
Mar 23, 2014
Kyro wrote:
How do subject like this get brought up all the time. And pull testing?? Wtf are you rappelling with a cow or something lol


The image that came to mind when I saw the title of the thread wasn't a cow, but rather a DEAD HORSE.
Gunkiemike
Joined Jul 29, 2009
2,453 points
Mar 24, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Pano of Choas in the P2 crux. Undercling-high-step...
Two interlocking loops from a figure-8 on each rope. TomCaldwell
From Clemson, S.C.
Joined Jun 2, 2009
2,715 points
Apr 5, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Chillin on a ledge!
long live the mighty EDK! Nathan Burns
From Dahlonega, GA
Joined Aug 5, 2013
165 points
Apr 5, 2014
TomCaldwell wrote:
Two interlocking loops from a figure-8 on each rope.

Yes
john strand
From southern colo
Joined May 22, 2008
2,355 points
Apr 5, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Coming down Donner Ridge after climbing Blitzen Ri...
TomCaldwell wrote:
Two interlocking loops from a figure-8 on each rope.


The technical term for this would be a Rethreaded Figure 8, or Flemish Bend. It's important to distinguish between this and an "Abnormal" Figure 8 (tied similar to how you'd tie an overhand), which can fail under small loads.
Ryan Nevius
From The Range of Light
Joined Dec 29, 2010
844 points
Apr 7, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Chillin on a ledge!
The whole EDK failure under small loads thing is bogus, tests have been run and it takes a couple thousand pounds just to make the knot roll... with substantial tails you have nothing to worry about, plus less snag risk Nathan Burns
From Dahlonega, GA
Joined Aug 5, 2013
165 points
Apr 7, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Chillin on a ledge!
The whole EDK failure under small loads thing is bogus, tests have been run and it takes a couple thousand pounds just to make the knot roll... with substantial tails you have nothing to worry about, plus less snag risk Nathan Burns
From Dahlonega, GA
Joined Aug 5, 2013
165 points
Apr 7, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Coming down Donner Ridge after climbing Blitzen Ri...
Nathan Burns wrote:
The whole EDK failure under small loads thing is bogus, tests have been run and it takes a couple thousand pounds just to make the knot roll... with substantial tails you have nothing to worry about, plus less snag risk


If you're replying to me, you misread my statement. I said that an "abnormal" figure 8 can fail under small loads. An overhand is bomber, and what most people should be using most of the time.
Ryan Nevius
From The Range of Light
Joined Dec 29, 2010
844 points
Apr 7, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Chillin on a ledge!
Ryan Nevius wrote:
If you're replying to me, you misread my statement. I said that an "abnormal" figure 8 can fail under small loads. An overhand is bomber, and what most people should be using most of the time.

ahhh gotcha
Nathan Burns
From Dahlonega, GA
Joined Aug 5, 2013
165 points


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