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Treasure Wall
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Bobby's Back S 
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Fields of Gold T,S 
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Twilight Kid, The S 
Twilight Time S 
Workingman's Blues T 

Join The Party 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Tony Bubb and Jerry Bargo, 6/16/07.
New Route: Yes
Season: Faces E/NE (Sun until noon)
Page Views: 1,505
Submitted By: Tony B on Jun 16, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Leading Join the Party.

Photo by Roslyn B.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A good route with a great crux. Start by facing the wall at the base of the tree & sneak your way into the corner past the small Mountain Maple Tree, then get some gear. Head up, then up and right on good cracks to reach a steep flake where you can jam a 1.5-2" crack and pinch the flake to pass a steep crux. before continuing up a crack system. After 70', you will come to a bulge. You can place a few cams under it and go right (harder) or left (easier, 3" gear) and up to a small ledge at 85' On the right of this ledge there is a medium-sized pine tree around to the right of you with a sling. If you need more gear- clip that with a runner. This is not the top. Instead, climb on past the ledge (second crux) on some really nice quartz holds and up a little further to another ledge with 2 bolts and rap anchors.

Rap 98' to the ground on a 60m rope.

Note: Ron Olsen placed the 2-bolt anchor up top of this at my request, as the rock above is loose or poor in some places and the retreat from the tree skips some nice climbing.

From the top of Join The Party, you can climb up a bit left of the anchor and traverse right on a ledge past two dead pine trees to a 2-bolt anchor. From here, you can continue up Fields of Gold or Workingman's Blues. See ?beta photo?.

Location 

From the approach to the main wall of Tonnere Tower, keep and eye to the right before you go up and left along the wall's base. You will see a faint trail that goes off right. Head right to the wall. A large pine tree grows a few meters out and right of the base of the wall. The massive roots of the pine form a flat shelf of root and soil as a belay. Just left of you, a crack splits a left-facing, left-leaning ramp from the main wall. The climb starts up this tiny slab and corner to access a very protectable crack and flake system that goes on for ~100 feet. The cracks are discontinuous in spots, so expect to go left or right a little here and there.

Route #15 in the ?beta photo? [apparently deleted by its submitter].

Protection 

A standard rack will do. Beginner leaders might take a double set of cams to prevent placing a certain size (hands to thin hands) and then being out of gear later.


Photos of Join The Party Slideshow Add Photo
The fun lower crack section.
The fun lower crack section.
Midway up.
Midway up.

Comments on Join The Party Add Comment
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By Greg D
From: Here
May 29, 2014

CONDITION REPORT 
I would agree with Ryan that there are a few dangerous blocks on this one: a 2 foot one just below the anchors and a huge, fridge-size one with not much that appears to be keeping it in place about halfway up the route.

Despite this, the climbing is fun. I traversed in from the left at the start after placing gear in the seem over head. There is a nice, new jug for the left hand. The previous hold broke off in my hand. This looked more fun and challenging than starting up the dirty corner.
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Aug 29, 2010
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

I'm surprised you did the first ascent of this route and graded it Tony, because usually I agree with your grades. I thought this climb was very easy at 5.9+ and fit well with the overgrading at the rest of the crag. Maybe that was what you were going for? Maybe it has gotten easier as it has cleaned up.

The first ~40 feet are cool. After that it was pretty nondescript until the cool final moves on the quartz crystals at the top. If the middle cleaned up a little more it would get better.

Also there was a head-sized block loose right below the anchors. We didn't trundle it due to the large amount of people below in the direct firing line.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Sep 26, 2010

Believe it or not, I was initially accused of sandbagging by the area developers! The grade was reflective of the FA condition lead for a single move up on the quartz up high while cleaning on FA, relative to other routes here. With that considered, it was set to more closely match the others at the crag than what we would have otherwise given it. A compromise, perhaps and certainly not representative of other areas.

I note in the book, it has been given 9+....
It is probably easier since this thing cleaned up a little.

The nice thing about "voting" the grade here is that over time it will come to consensus. Please do 'vote' the grade as you feel is appropriate here.
By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
Oct 14, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Worthwhile trad route with interesting route-finding, but an oddball grade. About 5.8 or VS 4c at Tremadog.
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 3, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun route! Takes gear well. I used a SR to 2" since that's what the guidebook calls out. No problem, but new leaders might want to take a 3" and 4" for the wider section.
By Ryan Watts
From: Bishop, CA
Jul 27, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Be careful! There are now quite a few loose blocks on this one, including a ~50 lb. loose/detached flake right below the anchors that looks like a very inviting handhold but is actually precariously balanced on another loose rock right below it. I tried to figure out a way to remove it when I lead this route today, but there were too many people at the base to do it safely. I marked an "X" on it with chalk, but it rained right after we left, so I doubt that will stay. Someone should probably remove the flake when there are less people around -- it's beyond ready to go.
By Joe Varela
Jul 6, 2014

The death block directly below the anchors is gone, but it could use some cleanup as there is some dirt and small stuff still in place. Still a lot of loose stuff above the tree.