Join The Party
|1,279 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.9- [details]|
|FA: ||Tony Bubb and Jerry Bargo, 6/16/07.|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Faces E/NE (Sun until noon)|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Jun 16, 2007|
Leading Join the Party.
Photo by Roslyn B.
A good route with a great crux. Start by facing the wall at the base of the tree & sneak your way into the corner past the small Mountain Maple Tree, then get some gear. Head up, then up and right on good cracks to reach a steep flake where you can jam a 1.5-2" crack and pinch the flake to pass a steep crux. before continuing up a crack system. After 70', you will come to a bulge. You can place a few cams under it and go right (harder) or left (easier, 3" gear) and up to a small ledge at 85' On the right of this ledge there is a medium-sized pine tree around to the right of you with a sling. If you need more gear- clip that with a runner. This is not the top. Instead, climb on past the ledge (second crux) on some really nice quartz holds and up a little further to another ledge with 2 bolts and rap anchors.
Rap 98' to the ground on a 60m rope.
Note: Ron Olsen placed the 2-bolt anchor up top of this at my request, as the rock above is loose or poor in some places and the retreat from the tree skips some nice climbing.
From the top of Join The Party, you can climb up a bit left of the anchor and traverse right on a ledge past two dead pine trees to a 2-bolt anchor. From here, you can continue up Fields of Gold or Workingman's Blues. See ?beta photo?.
From the approach to the main wall of Tonnere Tower, keep and eye to the right before you go up and left along the wall's base. You will see a faint trail that goes off right. Head right to the wall. A large pine tree grows a few meters out and right of the base of the wall. The massive roots of the pine form a flat shelf of root and soil as a belay. Just left of you, a crack splits a left-facing, left-leaning ramp from the main wall. The climb starts up this tiny slab and corner to access a very protectable crack and flake system that goes on for ~100 feet. The cracks are discontinuous in spots, so expect to go left or right a little here and there.
Route #15 in the ?beta photo? [apparently deleted by its submitter].
A standard rack will do. Beginner leaders might take a double set of cams to prevent placing a certain size (hands to thin hands) and then being out of gear later.
The fun lower crack section.
|Comments on Join The Party
|By Phil Lauffen|
Aug 29, 2010
I'm surprised you did the first ascent of this route and graded it Tony, because usually I agree with your grades. I thought this climb was very easy at 5.9+ and fit well with the overgrading at the rest of the crag. Maybe that was what you were going for? Maybe it has gotten easier as it has cleaned up.
The first ~40 feet are cool. After that it was pretty nondescript until the cool final moves on the quartz crystals at the top. If the middle cleaned up a little more it would get better.
Also there was a head-sized block loose right below the anchors. We didn't trundle it due to the large amount of people below in the direct firing line.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Sep 26, 2010
Believe it or not, I was initially accused of sandbagging by the area developers! The grade was reflective of the FA condition lead for a single move up on the quartz up high while cleaning on FA, relative to other routes here. It is probably easier since this thing cleaned up, because I was avoiding some poor holds. I imagine there are more options now that it has stabilized.
|By Rob Davies UK|
From: Cheshire, UK
Oct 14, 2011
Worthwhile trad route with interesting route-finding, but an oddball grade. About 5.8 or VS 4c at Tremadog.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Oct 15, 2011
The grade was set to more closely match the others at the crag than what we would have otherwise given it. A compromise, perhaps and certainly not representative of other areas. The nice thing about "voting" the grade here is that over time it will come to consensus. Please do 'vote' the grade as you feel is appropriate here.
I have, in fact, downgraded the rating myself to match the falling consensus grades at the crag in general.
I note in the book, it has been given 9+....
|By Bill Olszewski|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 3, 2012
Fun route! Takes gear well. I used a SR to 2" since that's what the guidebook calls out. No problem, but new leaders might want to take a 3" and 4" for the wider section.