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This is the best crack climb on the Second Buttress.
P1. Start in a crack below a 90 degree roof (very similar to Coffin Crack). Pull the roof via hands, and then continue up another 10 feet of hands. Mantel a small ledge, and then climb a weakness to a second roof. Move up and right (crux) of the roof, and belay at a rusty chain anchor.
P2. Either climb a finger crack (direct route) or move to the right and climb a hands/fists, cornery/chimney feature thing.
Standard rack, cams to 2 inches.
By TuFF GonG
From: gunnison Colorado
7 hours ago
Did it today, good stuff! Climbs WAY better than it looks from the ground.