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Northeast Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Etude T 
Flake Out T 
Flakes of Rad T 
Flakes of Wrath T 
Flower of High Rank T 
Johnny Quest T 
Rock Hudson T 
Spooky Spike T 
Wet Dreams T 

Johnny Quest 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Craig Fry and Spencer Lennard, 1979
Page Views: 5,805
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Jan 25, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (82)
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Short but sweet. Photo by Tom Michael.

Description 

Pitch 1 (crux) is a classic steep finger crack. You can either rappel 90' from the top of this pitch or continue to the top with the second pitch of Flake Out (5.6) or Flakes of Wrath (5.9R). This climb is in the shade after mid-morning for most of the year.

Protection 

Gear to 2", 2 bolt anchor/rap (100')


Photos of Johnny Quest Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jacob sending Johnny Quest with style.
Jacob sending Johnny Quest with style.
Rock Climbing Photo: Upper section of Johnny Quest.
Upper section of Johnny Quest.
Rock Climbing Photo: One Hour Rock from the base of Johnny Quest, Suici...
One Hour Rock from the base of Johnny Quest, Suici...
Rock Climbing Photo: Johnny Quest free solo pic 1
Johnny Quest free solo pic 1
Rock Climbing Photo: Johnny Quest
Johnny Quest
Rock Climbing Photo: Johnny Quest crack.
Johnny Quest crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of Johnny Quest. Lieback leads to crack.
BETA PHOTO: The start of Johnny Quest. Lieback leads to crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: Johnny Quest
Johnny Quest
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the start of Johnny Quest.
Looking down the start of Johnny Quest.
Rock Climbing Photo: Johnny Quest free solo pic 2
Johnny Quest free solo pic 2

Comments on Johnny Quest Add Comment
Show which comments
By C Miller
Administrator
Jan 27, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Solo up from the left via easy moves (5.4) over sketchy stacked blocks or climb directly (5.8) up to the base.

A clean left-facing corner gains a wedged block and the traverse right to the short but quality finger crack. The rarely done 2nd pitch climbs dirty face to the top of the wall, but most rap after doing the 1st pitch.
By Nick Barczak
May 22, 2009

A 70m rope will conveniently allow you to rappel from the 2-bolt anchor back down past the stacked blocks that C Miller describes and right to your packs.

The first pitch is one of my favorite pitches in Idyllwild. A must do!
By Jesse Davidson
From: san diego, ca
Aug 25, 2009

60 meters will get you comfortably off, as well, with a bit of down-scrambling
By Tradoholic
Aug 6, 2012

Excellent climbing but over too soon. 2" gear not needed.
By Phil Esra
Jun 30, 2014

In the shade well before Etude & Flower. Fun little route with a sketchy approach. 60m rap from the top puts you within a couple easy slab moves (to the climber's left) from the ground.
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Mar 18, 2015

Love the "sketchy approach" comment on a one-pitch climb. It's all about context, I guess. In Red Rocks, some people consider Black Orpheus to have a "sketchy approach" because of the 500 feet (at least) of 3rd and 4th class scrambling to get to the base. Others don't even notice it. Considering the winter we're having, sometimes it's sketchy for me to get out of the car to open the garage door....
By Phil Esra
Apr 7, 2015

Fun little route with a short approach with a few sketchy moves...

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