Johnny Hanksville of Mars
|803 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet, Grade II|
|Consensus: ||5.11a C0 [details]|
|FA: ||James Garrett, June 2010 belayed by John Smart and Sheldon Hatch FFA: Darren Knezek, May 2011|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Anytime when dry|
|Submitted By: ||James Garrett on Jun 13, 2010|
Johnny Hanksville Of Mars on Planet X
This is on the same Viewfinder Tower as Planet X. With so many Viewfinder Towers, it may make sense to categorize them according to Tower names (FA names?) rather than by route names. Climbed during the filming of the movie on a day off.
Start in an alcove on the right side of the North Face. The rock on most of the route seemed to be good quality Moenkopi Sandstone rather than the aforementioned Entrada...but the rotten summit block may very well be Entrada.
Pitch #1: Climb the mangle of disjointed crack systems to a saddle attaining the west arete and follow it to the top and two-bolt belay.
Rappel straight down the face to the ground with one rope.
North side of Viewfinder Tower called Planet X. 2 minute approach time form Highway 24.
Look for a belay bolt at the base of the route, placed there because those belaying do not own harnesses. Movie People...go figure!
Set of Camalots with doubles #3 to #5.
QDs or long slings for a few bolts. Hangers left on all 1/2" x 3.5" Hilti bolts.
A selection of pitons are recommended. I only had a few angles.
Two bolt belay/rappel established right of Planet X original route on the last really good rock on the ridgeline.
|Comments on Johnny Hanksville of Mars
|By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett|
Jun 15, 2010
Sounds like a fine route James.
I agree with you about the organization. I was lazy, and kinda screwed up with my initial postings. With the addition of more routes, it might be better to move Viewfinder Towers up a level and include it as a discrete area. I intended Planet X as the tower name, and never did come up with a route name. Yeah, the organization's screwed up for when someone adds another route--sorry.
|By James Garrett|
Jun 15, 2010
I agree Crusher....nice find by the way...when did you do your ascent? As the locals I have talked with seem to be unaware of a name for that tower....maybe Planet X will become both tower/route name...is that OK with you?
|By Darren Knezek|
May 18, 2011
rating: 5.11a C0
Freed this climb at what seemed like 5.10d or 5.11a.
It's all gear up to the 1st bolt and the gear I used to get there was a 4" cam, 1.5" cam and two 2.5" cams. The crux for me came between the 2nd and the 3rd bolt. I placed a blue Metolius Mastercam between these two bolts in a small slot. Strenuous to place, but key for keeping you from hitting the dirt slope below.
After the 3rd bolt, the rest of the climb just uses quickdraws. There's also a strange crux between the 3rd and 4th bolt, and a really cool rock over/mantle higher up that gets you up to the slab.
Once you get to the two hanger belay, it's about 12 feet of kitty litter to the summit. After the summit, climb back down 5 feet, lean over and get lowered off of Crusher's anchors. A 70 meter rope barely reaches the ground.
Nice route James!