|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 50'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA:||John A. DiMarino, John DiMarino, Jesse Howard, Steve DiMarino|
|Submitted By:||Steve DiMarino on Oct 17, 2009|
|Comments on Johnny Can't Lead||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Daniel Trugman
From: La Jolla, CA
Jun 20, 2010
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
The first two hangers are still missing. It didn't seem too bad to boulder up to the third bolt (one 5.7 move two feet off the ground, then ~ 5.0 climbing til the 3rd bolt), but a newer climber may not be comfortable with it.
It doesn't make too much sense to me that someone would strip the hangers just because of the meadow closure. "Johnny Can't Lead" is a good distance away from the obvious closures.
My guess is someone simply found them unnecessary and took them, whether to make a statement or just because he/she wanted them for something else. I definitely think they should be replaced. Good on you Steve for bolting it with the novice leader in mind.
The crux sequence is very cool, but the climb as a whole is not super sustained.
By Steve DiMarino
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 24, 2009
|I did this route with a few cams and discovered that is was much more fun than the other easier stuff on Cattle Call so I went ahead and bolted it. The low first bolt seems stupid until you climb it. I had the new, not so confident, 5.7 or 5.8 leader in mind when I put it there. Otherwise, it would be a stick clip climb. I guess that is my apology for it.|