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Cattle Call Wall Area
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Johnny Can't Lead S 
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Johnny Can't Lead 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: John A. DiMarino, John DiMarino, Jesse Howard, Steve DiMarino
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,419
Submitted By: Steve DiMarino on Oct 17, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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Laybacking through the steep crux section.


Well bolted 5.7 (or maybe 5.8) for the first time leader. Fun moves through the obvious well protected crux and then big holds to the top.


Not on Cattle Call Wall Area proper but on the rock immediately to the left of this wall 20 feet past the tree.


7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.
Please don't take the carabiners from the anchors.

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By Daniel Trugman
From: La Jolla, CA
Jun 20, 2010
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The first two hangers are still missing. It didn't seem too bad to boulder up to the third bolt (one 5.7 move two feet off the ground, then ~ 5.0 climbing til the 3rd bolt), but a newer climber may not be comfortable with it.

It doesn't make too much sense to me that someone would strip the hangers just because of the meadow closure. "Johnny Can't Lead" is a good distance away from the obvious closures.

My guess is someone simply found them unnecessary and took them, whether to make a statement or just because he/she wanted them for something else. I definitely think they should be replaced. Good on you Steve for bolting it with the novice leader in mind.


The crux sequence is very cool, but the climb as a whole is not super sustained.
By Steve DiMarino
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 24, 2009

I did this route with a few cams and discovered that is was much more fun than the other easier stuff on Cattle Call so I went ahead and bolted it. The low first bolt seems stupid until you climb it. I had the new, not so confident, 5.7 or 5.8 leader in mind when I put it there. Otherwise, it would be a stick clip climb. I guess that is my apology for it.

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