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Johnny Can't Lead 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Dave Katz and Tom Grimes, 1985
Page Views: 6,312
Submitted By: veritus on Dec 11, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (79)
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California Climber Magazine - Winter 2012 - Issue ...


Follows the line of large pockets between the right two caves. Very solid 5.10d. Last moves are beta intensive


5 bolts, three open shuts

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Matthew clipping the last draw on Johnny.
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Climber on "Johnny Can't Lead."

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By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Sep 2, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

I think it's a fun route, I'm surprised it received so few stars. Granted the overhanging jug hauling so common at Malibu can get boring, but I think this one is far better than many other in the park around this level; and there’s a little bonus at the end of this one. Reminds me of Mr. Big or Rolling Blackout.
By scottydo
From: ventura, ca
Oct 11, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This is 11a now since the climb goes up to an anchor that is higher than the previous ones. This also adds a couple harder moves at the end of the climb bumping up the grade in my opinion.
By MisterE
From: Bishop, CA
Oct 26, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

As of today, the upper two bolts have been replaced, both with 1/2" X 3" bolts. The second bolt will be changed out soon.

The climb should be more enjoyable now without the spinners.

I agree with the .11a rating.
By Michael Bartosek
From: Los Angeles
Jun 9, 2010

This climb is much improved with the new bolt considering that it is at the crux section (for me). I feel much better pulling that now and not worrying about those two old manky spinners.
By Jan Tarculas
From: Riverside, Ca
Apr 28, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

3rd or 4th bolt of the climb is a spinner, so careful. Also PLEASE put your own draws up top of you are planning to set up TR for friends. A lot of the anchors on this wall and rest of the area show A LOT of wear and almost dangerous to climb on.

Didn't do the climb before the extension, but still felt like 10d
By reaganchung
Sep 1, 2011

3rd bolt is now a 1/2" x 4 3/4" Stainless Powers 5-piece Bolt. 4th bolt got tightened but it may loosen again...
By Dan G0D5H411
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jan 13, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This was by far the best route I got on during a single day exploration of the area. It had a fluidity of movement that some of the other thuggy jug hauls in the canyon lacked.
By somillionaire
From: Los Angeles, California
Apr 11, 2014
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Good climb, especially the top moves where it gets a little more exciting. The couple of moves at the top give it barely just enough added pump to break into 11a but I could see it being 10d still.
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