Johnny Can't Lead
|3,058 page views|
johnny on 'johnny can't lead' :)
Follows the line of large pockets between the right two caves. Very solid 5.10d. Last moves are beta intensive
5 bolts, three open shuts
johnny on 'johnny can't lead'
Kellan on Johnny Can't Lead
California Climber Magazine - Winter 2012 - Issue ...
|Comments on Johnny Can't Lead
|By Ryan Kelly|
Sep 2, 2008
I think it's a fun route, I'm surprised it received so few stars. Granted the overhanging jug hauling so common at Malibu can get boring, but I think this one is far better than many other in the park around this level; and thereís a little bonus at the end of this one. Reminds me of Mr. Big or Rolling Blackout.
From: ventura, ca
Oct 11, 2009
This is 11a now since the climb goes up to an anchor that is higher than the previous ones. This also adds a couple harder moves at the end of the climb bumping up the grade in my opinion.
From: Los Angeles, for now
Oct 26, 2009
As of today, the upper two bolts have been replaced, both with 1/2" X 3" bolts. The second bolt will be changed out soon.
The climb should be more enjoyable now without the spinners.
I agree with the .11a rating.
|By Michael Bartosek|
From: Los Angeles
Jun 9, 2010
This climb is much improved with the new bolt considering that it is at the crux section (for me). I feel much better pulling that now and not worrying about those two old manky spinners.
From: Riverside, Ca
Apr 28, 2011
3rd or 4th bolt of the climb is a spinner, so careful. Also PLEASE put your own draws up top of you are planning to set up TR for friends. A lot of the anchors on this wall and rest of the area show A LOT of wear and almost dangerous to climb on.
Didn't do the climb before the extension, but still felt like 10d
Sep 1, 2011
3rd bolt is now a 1/2" x 4 3/4" Stainless Powers 5-piece Bolt. 4th bolt got tightened but it may loosen again...