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Ghetto Wall
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Johnny Can't Lead S 
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Unsorted Routes:

Johnny Can't Lead 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Dave Katz and Tom Grimes, 1985
Page Views: 5,200
Submitted By: veritus on Dec 11, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (64)
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California Climber Magazine - Winter 2012 - Issue ...

Description 

Follows the line of large pockets between the right two caves. Very solid 5.10d. Last moves are beta intensive

Protection 

5 bolts, three open shuts


Photos of Johnny Can't Lead Slideshow Add Photo
johnny on 'johnny can't lead'
johnny on 'johnny can't lead'
johnny on 'johnny can't lead' :)
johnny on 'johnny can't lead' :)
Kellan on Johnny Can't Lead
Kellan on Johnny Can't Lead
Matthew clipping the last draw on Johnny.
Matthew clipping the last draw on Johnny.

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By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Sep 2, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

I think it's a fun route, I'm surprised it received so few stars. Granted the overhanging jug hauling so common at Malibu can get boring, but I think this one is far better than many other in the park around this level; and there’s a little bonus at the end of this one. Reminds me of Mr. Big or Rolling Blackout.
By scottydo
From: ventura, ca
Oct 11, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This is 11a now since the climb goes up to an anchor that is higher than the previous ones. This also adds a couple harder moves at the end of the climb bumping up the grade in my opinion.
By MisterE
From: Bishop, CA
Oct 26, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

As of today, the upper two bolts have been replaced, both with 1/2" X 3" bolts. The second bolt will be changed out soon.

The climb should be more enjoyable now without the spinners.

I agree with the .11a rating.
By Michael Bartosek
From: Los Angeles
Jun 9, 2010

This climb is much improved with the new bolt considering that it is at the crux section (for me). I feel much better pulling that now and not worrying about those two old manky spinners.
By RNclimber
From: Riverside, Ca
Apr 28, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

3rd or 4th bolt of the climb is a spinner, so careful. Also PLEASE put your own draws up top of you are planning to set up TR for friends. A lot of the anchors on this wall and rest of the area show A LOT of wear and almost dangerous to climb on.

p.s.
Didn't do the climb before the extension, but still felt like 10d
By reaganchung
Sep 1, 2011

3rd bolt is now a 1/2" x 4 3/4" Stainless Powers 5-piece Bolt. 4th bolt got tightened but it may loosen again...
By Dan G0D5H411
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jan 13, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This was by far the best route I got on during a single day exploration of the area. It had a fluidity of movement that some of the other thuggy jug hauls in the canyon lacked.
By somillionaire
From: Los Angeles, California
Apr 11, 2014
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Good climb, especially the top moves where it gets a little more exciting. The couple of moves at the top give it barely just enough added pump to break into 11a but I could see it being 10d still.