Johnny Can't Lead 5.10d
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | Dave Katz and Tom Grimes, 1985 |
| Submitted By: | veritus on Dec 11, 2006 |
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johnny on 'johnny can't lead' :)
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Description Follows the line of large pockets between the right two caves. Very solid 5.10d. Last moves are beta intensive
Protection 5 bolts, three open shuts
johnny on 'johnny can't lead'
| Kellan on Johnny Can't Lead
| California Climber Magazine - Winter 2012 - Issue ...
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| Comments on Johnny Can't Lead |
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By Ryan Kelly From: work. Sep 2, 2008 rating: 5.10
| I think it's a fun route, I'm surprised it received so few stars. Granted the overhanging jug hauling so common at Malibu can get boring, but I think this one is far better than many other in the park around this level; and there’s a little bonus at the end of this one. Reminds me of Mr. Big or Rolling Blackout. |
By scottydo From: ventura, ca Oct 11, 2009 rating: 5.11a
| This is 11a now since the climb goes up to an anchor that is higher than the previous ones. This also adds a couple harder moves at the end of the climb bumping up the grade in my opinion. |
By MisterE From: Los Angeles, for now Oct 26, 2009 rating: 5.11a
| As of today, the upper two bolts have been replaced, both with 1/2" X 3" bolts. The second bolt will be changed out soon. The climb should be more enjoyable now without the spinners. I agree with the .11a rating. |
By Michael Bartosek From: Los Angeles Jun 9, 2010
| This climb is much improved with the new bolt considering that it is at the crux section (for me). I feel much better pulling that now and not worrying about those two old manky spinners. |
By RNclimber From: Riverside, Ca Apr 28, 2011 rating: 5.10d
| 3rd or 4th bolt of the climb is a spinner, so careful. Also PLEASE put your own draws up top of you are planning to set up TR for friends. A lot of the anchors on this wall and rest of the area show A LOT of wear and almost dangerous to climb on. p.s. Didn't do the climb before the extension, but still felt like 10d |
By reaganchung Sep 1, 2011
| 3rd bolt is now a 1/2" x 4 3/4" Stainless Powers 5-piece Bolt. 4th bolt got tightened but it may loosen again... |
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