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Johnny Can't Lead 

5.10d

   
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Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet
Consensus: 5.11a [details]
FA: Dave Katz and Tom Grimes, 1985
Submitted By: veritus on Dec 11, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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johnny on 'johnny can't lead' :)

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Description 

Follows the line of large pockets between the right two caves. Very solid 5.10d. Last moves are beta intensive


Protection 

5 bolts, three open shuts



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California Climber Magazine - Winter 2012 - Issue No. 3 <br /> <br />Natalie Duran crossing over to a large just before the anchors on Johnny Can’t Lead (11a) <br /> <br />Malibu Creek State Park <br /> <br />Image + Anthony Lapomardo

California Climber Magazine - Winter 2012 - Issue ...


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By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Sep 2, 2008
rating: 5.10

I think it's a fun route, I'm surprised it received so few stars. Granted the overhanging jug hauling so common at Malibu can get boring, but I think this one is far better than many other in the park around this level; and there’s a little bonus at the end of this one. Reminds me of Mr. Big or Rolling Blackout.

By scottydo
From: ventura, ca
Oct 11, 2009
rating: 5.11a

This is 11a now since the climb goes up to an anchor that is higher than the previous ones. This also adds a couple harder moves at the end of the climb bumping up the grade in my opinion.

By MisterE
From: Los Angeles, for now
Oct 26, 2009
rating: 5.11a

As of today, the upper two bolts have been replaced, both with 1/2" X 3" bolts. The second bolt will be changed out soon.

The climb should be more enjoyable now without the spinners.

I agree with the .11a rating.

By Michael Bartosek
From: Los Angeles
Jun 9, 2010

This climb is much improved with the new bolt considering that it is at the crux section (for me). I feel much better pulling that now and not worrying about those two old manky spinners.

By RNclimber
From: Riverside, Ca
Apr 28, 2011
rating: 5.10d

3rd or 4th bolt of the climb is a spinner, so careful. Also PLEASE put your own draws up top of you are planning to set up TR for friends. A lot of the anchors on this wall and rest of the area show A LOT of wear and almost dangerous to climb on.

p.s.
Didn't do the climb before the extension, but still felt like 10d

By reaganchung
Sep 1, 2011

3rd bolt is now a 1/2" x 4 3/4" Stainless Powers 5-piece Bolt. 4th bolt got tightened but it may loosen again...