Sit start on great holds in the low hueco on the overhanging tallest part of the boulder. I went pretty much straight up on slopers, most of which have a little bit of a positive edge. Guidebook says to go up and right. Either way, getting established out of the hole is probably the crux.
This problem is in the "main area" of Kelly's Hill. When hiking up to this area from the main trail, you'll see the boulder with Jump Start on your left and the obvious striking prow of the Johnnie Big Mouth boulder on your right. Good map in the Bob Banks book.
|By Kelly Lindsay|
Aug 21, 2013
rating: V4 6B
The correct name is Johnnie Big Mouth, after the song by Don Carlos. The original problem went to the right after the hueco and finished with a big dyno to the top, until a better sequence was discovered that went straight up.
|By Joe Stern|
Jan 27, 2014
Updated the name. Thanks for the info and great photo Kelly.
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Apr 6, 2014
I love this rock. The dyno to the top is, in my opinion, the most fun way to finish this problem.