John Doe 3  5.11b

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 25 feet Consensus:  5.11b [details] FA:  unknown Submitted By:  grk10vq on May 20, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

John Doe 3

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Synopsis: 

Just left of Celestial Ascention is a zig-zagging crack with three pins. Mossy, but not chossy, this powerful and ever steepening line goes and is a fairly decent route on fairly solid rock. Questionable pins and tricky placements are the highlights of this line. Get out there and test your skills.

Start off casual, climbing up steps, cut right and work into the crack system. From here straddle a hanging block, place a piece or just gun it towards the first pin. Clip this relic and move up and slightly left through the first crux over crystals and shallow side-pulls. Reach another protruding pin and keep it together. Clip this, back it up with a small piece or nut if you choose, then fire straight up for the horizontal crack. Once here clip another deeper pin and head left climbing through the last crux to the exit over easier ground.

This short route will feel twice as long due to its insecurity. Technical, yet thuggish movement will limit the flow of climbing leaving one a little breathless and panting for protection.

Coordinates:  

Often missed, this route sits directly left of Celestial Ascention and just right of Devil Tree. It is most recognized by two prominent and jutting rusty pins.

The Rack: 

This route consists of three pins to a two bolt anchor with chains. Bring some draws, stoppers, and a few small cams up to a half inch. A two inch cam protects the easy move before the anchor. Long slings or a cord are nice for extending the rope over the abrasive block at the top.

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