John Doe 2 5.11 PG13
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a/b [details] |
| FA: | ?? |
| Submitted By: | Boissal on May 28, 2009 |
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Description Described in the Ruckmans guide as "2 bolts that don't seem to have a home", this mixed route has some fun moves and a powerful crux section.
Scramble/climb up the easy blocky section between the starts of Total X and Fortress to a ledge below the large alcove. Lieback your way into the alcove before clipping a bolt and committing to the powerful crux, a long balancy reach to a decent edge. A few easier moves bring you to the second bolt and another cruxy section of crystal pinching.
Location Located on the Watchtower in between Total X and Fortress, easily identified by a big alcove about 1/3 of the way up the route.
Protection 2 bolts that look a bit battered. A #2 and maybe #3 for the main (hollow) undercling, some micros or small nuts for the upper flake.
Ancient rusty bolts/chains on top, better to rap off.
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
May 28, 2009
| This route deserves more traffic, it's fun and burly. The gear looks solid but it might be PGish on the upper section where things get a bit thin.
I thought the crux was a bouldery move, hard 10 or maybe easy 11.
Thoughts?
Edit: after getting back on it I'd say it's more like mid 11, sustained climbing with hard-to-place and questionable gear. |
By Alec
Jun 23, 2009
rating: 5.11a
| What differentiates this route is the topout -- the direct finish is much more difficult than Fortress.
As for the gear, my partner today whipped on a red C3 behind the flake between the two bolts. He took off a chunk of rock too with another cam which freed up another small placement! |
By Fall Guy
Oct 11, 2012
rating: 5.11b
| almost crapped myself on this route when I got the small cam stuck in a shitty position near the top... fun route for sure |
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