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John Bryan State Park

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Left TR 
Black Right TR 
Blue TR 
Blue Left TR 
Blue Right TR 
Bubble Butt 
Green TR 
Green Left TR 
Green Right TR 
Hug Me Once Shame on You, Hug Me Twice Shame on Me 
Mavericks Boulder, Gleaming the Tube V3+ 
Mavericks Boulder, Pulling Tubes V6 
Mavericks Boulder, Ripping waves 
Orange Left TR 
Orange Right TR 
Pink TR 
Pink Left TR 
Pink Middle  TR 
Pride Rock Boulder, Swamp Ass  
Red TR 
Red Left TR 
Red Middle TR 
Yellow TR 
Yellow Left TR 
Yellow Middle TR 
Unsorted Routes:
Rest Day:
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John Bryan State Park
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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

John Bryan State Park  


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Location: 39.79062, -83.85533 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,657
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ben Bruestle on Jul 23, 2008
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Description 

Six designated climbing sites and one rappelling site are maintained in the park. 30-60 foot limestone cliffs along the Little Miami River gorge. Only toproping allowed. Huge painted eyebolts at the top of all routes denote the different sites. From west to east the sites are Red, Blue, Green, Pink, Black, Orange, and Yellow. Routes range from 5.3-5.12. No lead climbing or bouldering allowed. Each site is limited to 10 people at a time. Southern aspect. Pay camping in park.

Getting There 

Located near Yellow Springs and Clifton off I-70. Near Springfield go south on 72 and follow signs to John Bryan State Park. Once in the park, use the trailhead in the Wingo Picnic area to access the climbs along the North Rim Trail.

Climbing Season



Weather station 8.7 miles from here

25 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',14],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',3],['5.8',5],['5.9',4],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',4],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',2],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for John Bryan State Park:
Black Left   5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c     TR, 30'   
Green   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     TR, 25'   
Red   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     TR, 1 pitch, 20'   
Browse More Classics in John Bryan State Park

Featured Route For John Bryan State Park
South face

Mavericks Boulder, Pulling Tubes V6 V6 7A PG13  OH : John Bryan State Park
On the south side of this boulder(facing towards Little Miami River) the rock appears to have a natural rip curl hence the name "Mavericks Boulder". Pulling tubes starts on the right side of the south face with both hands matched on the same side-pull, and works left through small pockets and then climbs straight up the bulge on far left of boulder to good holds and tops out. Good feet but small pockets on the face make for a fun traverse using only pockets to nice holds for the top out.Link t...[more]   Browse More Classics in OH

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Blue Route at John Bryan State Park
Blue Route at John Bryan State Park
Park Map
BETA PHOTO: Park Map

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