John Bryan State Park Rock Climbing
Holly cranks Ohio
Six designated climbing sites and one rappelling site are maintained in the park. 30-60 foot limestone cliffs along the Little Miami River gorge. Only toproping allowed. Huge painted eyebolts at the top of all routes denote the different sites. From west to east the sites are Red, Blue, Green, Pink, Black, Orange, and Yellow. Routes range from 5.3-5.12. No lead climbing or bouldering allowed. Each site is limited to 10 people at a time. Southern aspect. Pay camping in park.
Located near Yellow Springs and Clifton off I-70. Near Springfield go south on 72 and follow signs to John Bryan State Park. Once in the park, use the trailhead in the Wingo Picnic area to access the climbs along the North Rim Trail.
Climbing Season For the All Locations area.
Weather station 8.7 miles from here
25 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',13],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in John Bryan State Park
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in John Bryan State Park
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for John Bryan State Park:
Green 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR, 25'
Pink 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR, 1 pitch, 22'
Red 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR, 1 pitch, 20'
Featured Route For John Bryan State Park
Mavericks Boulder, Gleaming the Tube V3+ V3+ 6A+
: John Bryan State Park
The problem starts on the very left side under the bulge on the south face. Its starts with hands matched on an obvious large pinch and works straight up using pockets to a great incut crimp and finishing the same as pulling tubes. The crux will either be the star,t or once you are on the good pockets, stabbing up and right to the good crimp.Beta Video Link...[more] Browse More Classics in OH
Blue Route at John Bryan State Park