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 ADVANCED
Brown Cloud Rocks
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anti-viral T,TR 
Ark, The T 
Axis of Weasels T 
Baggins' Blunt Arete T,TR 
Big Dihedral T,TR 
Bolted Line S 
Brown Cloud ArÍte S,TR 
Bullet The Brown Cloud S 
Chimney T 
Crack T,TR 
Crack (2 left of Interface) T 
Crack (right of Interface) T 
Crack/Chimney T,TR 
Deck Chairs on the Titanic S,TR 
Interface aka Slab Left S,TR 
Iraqi Road T 
John Adams' Adams Apple T,TR 
Kid's Climb S,TR 
Killian's Dead T,TR 
Louise S,TR 
Louise Arete TR 
New River Gorge Homesick Blues S 
Of Sound Mind and Body T 
Old Roof Route aka Lemons, Limes, and Tangerines S,TR 
Pee Into the Wind T 
Pee on Dee S,TR 
Pee on Me T 
Protection From the Virus S,TR 
Punkin Puss & Mushmouse aka Bow of the Titanic S 
Retro-Crack T 
Right of Interface T 
Solo Route aka Life Raft TR 
Tenacious S,TR 
Thelma S,TR 
Thick Crust T 
Tiny Face T,TR 
Tiny Pillar TR 
Top Rope Face (aka Rising Passion) S,TR 
Unknown Crack T,TR 
Unknown Crack (Right of The Virus) T 
Unknown left of Left Slab T 
Unknown Route S 
Variation to The Virus T,S 
Virus, The S 
Volobee (aka Jolobee) S 
Wide Crack T,TR 
Windy Days S,TR 
Ypsilon T,TR 

John Adams' Adams Apple 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,526
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (43)
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Sam sends on-sight.

Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Follow the crack that runs up and right, just right of Killian's Dead and Deck Chairs. Try to use only the crack at the top (crux), and not bail out to the dihedral corner on the right.

Protection 

Smaller cams, stoppers. We used a 20 foot sling thrown around a huge block.

Per nathanjohnson83: top bolts were recently added with a chain and a rap ring.


Photos of John Adams' Adams Apple Slideshow Add Photo
BETA PHOTO
Looking up the fun crack.
Looking up the fun crack.
Working into the main crack.
Working into the main crack.

Comments on John Adams' Adams Apple Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 12, 2003
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Pretty decent trad lead for a beginner. It looked like it would be hard to mess up the cam placements int he gradually widening crack that starts half way up. Hexes would also work.Actual grade should be 5.6, stars- 1.

Not bad, but not good either. What can you say about a 30 foot line? It had good jams and nice pro- but you can sew it up on 4 placements.

Uh, no harder than the line to the left rated 5.6.
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 26, 2003

Stay in the crack up top, it's closer to grade. IMO a very enjoyable climb. Big dihedral is harder and is a solid 5.8 so if you danced right up JAAA and wanna get some other 8's, heads up for the Big D. Both worth doing.
By Matt Chan
From: Boulder
Apr 8, 2004
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I second what Tony said in a previous statement, that John Adams' is no harder than Killian's Dead. We tried something a bit different and climbed the face after the hand/fist crack ran out.
By Sam Benedict
From: Denver, CO
Jan 19, 2006
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13

This was my first on sight trad lead. Itís not in any hard but a little interesting because the good placements donít start until about a third of the way up. I think I used cams from .5 - 3.5. The crack goes from tight hands to fist (for me), nice variety. The top is kind of lame but what are you gonna do?
By outdooreric
From: Lyons, CO
Jan 30, 2008

If you start at the groove just right of the "15" in the beta photo and climb directly to the crack, you can make the climb go at 5.8. Starting in the Killian's chimney corner will negate this boulder problem start bringing the grade down. Bring pro to 3 inches.
By nathanjohnson83
From: Wheaton
Nov 2, 2010
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Top bolts were recently added w/ a chain and a rap ring to make TR easier for this route.
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 5, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Great jams through the crux. Can't wait to lead this one next time.