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John Adams' Adams Apple 

5.8

   
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Type: Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Consensus: 5.7+ [details]
FA: Unknown
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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BETA PHOTO

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Description 

Follow the crack that runs up and right, just right of Killian's Dead and Deck Chairs. Try to use only the crack at the top (crux), and not bail out to the dihedral corner on the right.


Protection 

Smaller cams, stoppers. We used a 20 foot sling thrown around a huge block.

Per nathanjohnson83: top bolts were recently added with a chain and a rap ring.



Photos of John Adams' Adams Apple Slideshow Add Photo
Sam sends on-sight.

Sam sends on-sight.

Looking up the fun crack.

Looking up the fun crack.

Working into the main crack.

Working into the main crack.


Comments on John Adams' Adams Apple Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 12, 2003
rating: 5.6

Pretty decent trad lead for a beginner. It looked like it would be hard to mess up the cam placements int he gradually widening crack that starts half way up. Hexes would also work.Actual grade should be 5.6, stars- 1.

Not bad, but not good either. What can you say about a 30 foot line? It had good jams and nice pro- but you can sew it up on 4 placements.

Uh, no harder than the line to the left rated 5.6.

By Anonymous Coward
Sep 26, 2003

Stay in the crack up top, it's closer to grade. IMO a very enjoyable climb. Big dihedral is harder and is a solid 5.8 so if you danced right up JAAA and wanna get some other 8's, heads up for the Big D. Both worth doing.

By Matt Chan
From: Denver, CO
Apr 8, 2004
rating: 5.6

I second what Tony said in a previous statement, that John Adams' is no harder than Killian's Dead. We tried something a bit different and climbed the face after the hand/fist crack ran out.

By Sam Benedict
From: Denver, CO
Jan 19, 2006
rating: 5.8- PG13

This was my first on sight trad lead. It’s not in any hard but a little interesting because the good placements don’t start until about a third of the way up. I think I used cams from .5 - 3.5. The crack goes from tight hands to fist (for me), nice variety. The top is kind of lame but what are you gonna do?

By outdooreric
From: Lyons, CO
Jan 30, 2008

If you start at the groove just right of the "15" in the beta photo and climb directly to the crack, you can make the climb go at 5.8. Starting in the Killian's chimney corner will negate this boulder problem start bringing the grade down. Bring pro to 3 inches.

By nathanjohnson83
From: Wheaton
Nov 2, 2010
rating: 5.8-

Top bolts were recently added w/ a chain and a rap ring to make TR easier for this route.

By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 5, 2011
rating: 5.7

Great jams through the crux. Can't wait to lead this one next time.