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Johler Coaster 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
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Submitted By: Garrick Muehlnickel on Mar 16, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Johler Coaster follows the corner crack.
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Description 

"Johler Coaster" is the corner crack to the left of "Elf Jism Dihedral". Climb up an overhanging face on big holds to the start of the crack. Follow the crack to the top.


Protection 

Takes nuts, and small cams #0.3-0.75. A #3 would be good at the start.

Top-rope - no anchors, just sling a boulder directly above it. Watch out for cactus on top.



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By TJ Quirk
From: Parker, CO
Mar 22, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

I think if you force yourself to follow the crack, it deserves the original .10 rating. There are back to back finger locks above the overhang. A good place to practice, because the feet are good, and you can bail out to better holds on the dihedral if necessary.