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Lower Cliffs, Upper Tier
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When Joey Comes Marching Home T 

When Joey Comes Marching Home 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 105'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Rocco Spina 1990
Page Views: 880
Submitted By: Paul Rezucha on Oct 3, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Joey's taken from a distance.

Description 

Joey's first half is quite easy but a bit run out to the second bolt. The hard moves start just above the third bolt. The first crux is thin hands and feet until you get hands over the small overhang. The second crux is getting your feet over the overhang.

Location 

Even though Joey's is technically on the upper tier, you reach it by walking left from the lower tier along a small trail through the bushes and angling up and over boulders after 75 feet or so. The cliff is only one tier at this end of the cliffs. The climb is easily recognized by a small clearing at the base of the only nice looking face with a small overhang near the top. A 60 meter rope just reaches the ground for rappelling. Otherwise you could walk left off the top and wind down and around the base back to the climb.

Protection 

The 6 bolts can be supplemented with additional gear in a couple places to ease nerves if need be. 2 bolt anchors for belaying on top.


Photos of When Joey Comes Marching Home Slideshow Add Photo
Sallie checking out the moves at the second crux.
Sallie checking out the moves at the second crux.
Paul just reaching second bolt. 3rd and 4th bolts ...
Paul just reaching second bolt. 3rd and 4th bolts ...
A short rest at the overhang before tackling the s...
A short rest at the overhang before tackling the s...
Paul just above the 3rd bolt getting ready for the...
Paul just above the 3rd bolt getting ready for the...
Mike Arechiga on, When Joey Comes Marching Home. 5...
Mike Arechiga on, When Joey Comes Marching Home. 5...

Comments on When Joey Comes Marching Home Add Comment
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By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
Oct 29, 2006

Does anyone know what the climb is that goes up about 30' right of Joey's? The first bolt is about 15' up on a slab and then two more are up and left on the steeper rock (crux). A fourth bolt is found after the crux section and a fifth is up at the last short wall before the top. Additional trad gear protects the couple longer runouts. The climb is very good and on solid rock simulating a rock gym route to some extent with the steep sections having good holds that are horizontal to a bit sloping. I would think it goes at 5.9 or so...
By splitclimber
Sep 24, 2010

great climb. can TR w/ 60m and extended anchor and avoid the crux 5.9, which makes it a really good long and fun 5.7 or so.
By Gunkswest
Jul 12, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

RC.com has this listed as "When Joey Comes Marching Home." This is a very good route. As mentioned, a couple TCUs can be used to supplement the bolts.
By mattymck
From: Rocklin, Ca
Sep 29, 2012

I don't know what a legal firm has to do with anything, but this route is called "When Joey Comes Marching Home", it is 10b and a pretty good mixed pro lead.
By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
Jul 31, 2014

Repeated this route now 8 years later and either the route got harder or I got older. Pretty tough moves getting up the section under the roof. Couldn't be a better place for the hidden holds! Lots of good moves all the way to the top!