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Joe's Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cool Route  TR 
Five Nine Crack T,TR 
It's a Bargin TR 
It's All Buckets  TR 
Mother Superior  TR 
No Bargin  TR 
Sister of Mercy TR 
Smokey Joe's Cafe  TR 
Standard Route  TR 
Wave , The TR 
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Joe's Rock  


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Location: 42.0268, -71.4053 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,800
Administrators: Old Timer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: chris21 on Jun 9, 2009
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Description 

This is a small cliff (about 60 feet high) off of Route 121 in Wrentham, MA at the Joe's Rock Conservation area.

The rock is rather crumbly (I've had a couple large holds break off in my hand), and the ground is covered with broken glass and other debris.

It is only open dawn till dusk, and it is monitored by police (most of whom are courteous to climbers) because of past incidents with partiers.

There used to be quite a few bolted routes here, but most of them were chopped. There are still 2 bolted lines, one at the right end and one more towards the middle of the cliff. You can set up toprope anchors above just about anywhere on the cliff though sometimes pretty far back (as much as 40 feet), and routes can be as hard as 5.12.

I've also done some bouldering on the shorter parts of the cliff.

Getting There 

From I-495, take route 1A towards Wrentham Center (nearly all the way to Providence from Boston) turn left on to 121, Joe's Rock Conservation Area is a couple miles up on the right. If you enter Cumberland, RI, you went too far.

Once you park, then walk down the trail towards the pond turn right. Then when the trail splits, go left as this will bring you to the base of the cliff, about 500 feet from the parking lot.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.0 miles from here

10 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',3],['5.9',2],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Joe's Rock

The Wave 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a  MA : Joe's Rock
"Right of Mother Superior there are two bolts on top of the overhang to top rope The Wave."This is kind of a scramble route. This is the slope that splits the left face from the right face. I have not gone up this yet, but the word has it you can go up the wave to find bolts. They must be ancient now. Or just set up TR from trees....[more]   Browse More Classics in MA

Photos of Joe's Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Sister of Mercy on the left, Mother Superior on the right.
Sister of Mercy on the left, Mother Superior on th...
Standard Route, 5.9 Crack, and Smokey Joe's Cafe.
BETA PHOTO: Standard Route, 5.9 Crack, and Smokey Joe's Cafe.

Comments on Joe's Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
Sep 24, 2009
See climbri.org for route descriptions for this crag.
By patrick donahue
From: Gunnison, Colorado
Mar 8, 2011
Does anyone know if these routes have been rebolted?
By Keyan P
From: Burlington, VT
Apr 19, 2011
^Anyone know if anything has been rebolted?
By john cronin
Jul 2, 2011
Went to Joe's Rock to top rope. July 2011. As far as we saw, there were no bolts. We climbed about 4/5th down the left face. We climbed to the right of It's a Bargain on a no named route, I think, that is 5.7.

Joe's is tricky to set up top rope anchors. From the top, you can't see the base of the climb without someone down climbing. Even then, with the canopy of leaves being so thick, placement of anchors for the route you want is very tough and time consuming.

We used two 50 meter ropes. One for the man setting the anchors to tie into for safety. One 75 and one 50 foot static ropes for anchor building.

At the top of our route, the ground had a dense covering of pine needles, it looked like top ropes were not set up here since the dawn of time. So, I think it is many years since this route was top roped. There was zero chalk visible one left face. The right had some form bouldering.

It's a shame there are no bolts here any longer. Looks like the wall would not be great for trad. There are a ton of good looking climbs here with a lot of variety. The face has a crumbly look but it is actually pretty good. We did not encounter any loose rock.
By Joe M.
Jan 3, 2013
Stuff like this does not help climbing access:

rentham.patch.com/articles/wfd...
By crimper
Dec 6, 2013
Does anyone know why the bolts were chopped? Were they just getting old? Was it poorly bolted in the first place? Was it a landowner or impact issue?

Has anyone considered rebolting?
By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
Dec 7, 2013
The bolts just disappeared in 2002. No known reason. Will you pay for the bolts and hangers to replace them? If so, let me know and I'll replace the bolts.

climbri.org/joes.htm
By crimper
Dec 9, 2013
I've been eyeing a particular grad school program in Boston. I was looking for sport crags in the area and came across Joe's. Anyway, I wouldn't be starting school for another year and a half due to current commitments, so don't count on it/hold back with your own efforts. If I do move up there, I'd be more than willing to put money and time into rebolting if the quality of the routes and rock seem worth it.
How are Mother Superior and Sister of Mercy? Does this crag have more potential than the ~10 current routes?
By Joe M.
Dec 9, 2013
I think there's potential for a low 5.13 route or two to the right of Mother Superior, but that would be about it. The rock quality is better than it first appears but isn't great. The local bouldering is of much higher quality....
By Dana Seaton
Dec 12, 2013
This place was a bolted chosspile at best when it was equipped. I led all the routes there when it was possible, and even rapped the lines to the right of the 12 and never felt compelled to come back. The rock is hallow and would not be safe to put bolts in in the pink section. Plus routes would be contrived as there are easier exits.

Much higher quality routes can be found at Crow Hill, some at a very high standard 12c, 13a, 13r/x all trad.