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 ADVANCED
Square Ledge (Pinkham Notch)
Select Route:
Brain, The TR 
Chimney, The T 
Joe's Place T 
Nose, The TR 
Practice Session T 
Prize, The T 
Standard Route T 
Thriller Arete T 
Unknown (Left of Practice Session Right of The Brain) T 
White Face, The T 

Joe's Place 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Brooks Dodge & Bill Putnam
Page Views: 743
Submitted By: rdlennon on Oct 10, 2008

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Description 

Joe's Place is an unlikely route up the far right hand side of the main face. Starting at the overhang between the Standard Route start and Thriller, pull out left towards an arete on good holds until it is possible to move around the corner onto a slab. You now face a somewhat vegetated, slightly overhanging crack that appears to be much harder than 5.6. Using some hidden face holds, make strenuous moves past the crack and an inconvenient bush. Continue more easily along discontinuous cracks with ample face holds, right along the top of the spectacular, arcing Thriller Arete. Finish towards the top of Standard Route.

This route is of a much lower quality than Standard Route. The moves are less fluid, the line less obvious, and some parts are dirty. However, the cruise along the top of Thriller is spectacular, and it might even be possible to set up a toprope for it from a point on Joe's.

Location 

Tackles the rightmost crack system on the main face.

Protection 

Pro is sparse during the first bouldery section, but afterwards the route takes good nuts. Gear is slim right at the top, so move left for a solid gear anchor.


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