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JP has interesting, steep climbing over a few bulges up to the anchors for Three Minute Hero. It is fairly lichen-covered, but it is a reasonably good warm up for the area. It felt stiff for the grade and may warrant a PG-13 rating- probably not a route for the .7 leader.
This is one route right from Three Minute Hero. The start is from a boulder wedged in the overhang and next to a tree. While it may be possible to start left of the tree, we started right of it. Step up onto good footholds with poor hands. Traverse left with immediate exposure and no pro to gain a right-leaning, flaring crack system. Offset cams are the ticket here. Crank up that crack to a ledge and make a hard-for-the-grade move over/around a second bulge up to a tenuous stance under a third bulge. Climb the crack through the bulge and start looking for the anchors, which are two Metolius rap bolts to the left which are a bit hard to see. Then TR Three Minute Hero. The length is probably 60-80 feet, but the point to which you lower is significantly downhill from where you start, so watch your ends. We used a 70m rope and had plenty of rope left over.
Gear to two inches, maybe one #3- offset cams were nice to have.
|By George Bracksieck|
Jul 27, 2012
I led this route yesterday. First I tried right of the tree. I'm 5'9" and have long legs, and yet I was unable — or unwilling — to rock on to the HIGH left sloper, while using a crumbling right-hand crimp. Starting to the left of the tree was even harder. So I started in front of the tree and made quick progress — for a few feet — until I couldn't find another hold, and there was no pro.
The rock bulged against my helmet, and resting was difficult. I was already exposed to the ledge falling way below to the left and was feeling like a treed puma above a pack of barking dogs. Moving down was unthinkable — I had to move up to find pro. A long reach found a good hold and even more commitment — I could hear the bounty hunter cocking his rifle. I moved up again and found my first placement: a #3/4 Metolius Offset TCU in a pocket. Long reaches to place a 2/3 Offset and a #7 DMM Offset made me feel more secure. More hard cranking over a series of bulges got me to the anchors.
While I agree that most modern Bolt Canyon ratings are soft, I think this route is 5.9. My second, Mike Endicott, who is much stronger than I, volunteered that rating as he arrived at the belay. The rock quality is generally excellent and the moves interesting, so I think this route deserves more stars.