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Jockey Cap

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Standard Overhang 
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Jockey Cap  

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Location: 44.0217, -70.9624 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,477
Administrators: Ladd Raine, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: BDalhaus on Mar 5, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: Topo of the Peary Boulder. This is the long bould...


This small granite dome and the boulders scattered at its base offer sport & trad climbing as well as bouldering. Sitting behind a store and a hotel just off the road, this mountain was a ski area in the 1930's. The boulders sit in the shade of the trees while the dome itself is in full sun. The area is more frequented by families out hiking than hardcore climbers, but the quality granite, albeit limited, is worth the visit.

IME in North Conway has a mini guide as well as Dr Topo.

Find the Dr. Topo guide here

Getting There 

Jockey Cap is located in the town of Fryeburg on Rt 302. From the intersection of Routes 113 and 302 the trailhead is 1 mile. Access the trail between the Jockey Cap Country Store and the Jockey Cap Motel. The approach is about 3 mins.

Climbing Season

Weather station 2.3 miles from here

4 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Jockey Cap
Standard Overhang

Standard Overhang V1 5  ME : Jockey Cap
Start at the bottom of a right leaning flake. Climb this to more jugs up and right. Jugs the whole way to a crux mantle (the top out was covered in ice when I climbed this, so it may be more straight forward than I thought)...[more]   Browse More Classics in ME

Photos of Jockey Cap Slideshow Add Photo
South Face
BETA PHOTO: South Face
Jockey Cap Boulders. Pad is under a V-easy warm up...
BETA PHOTO: Jockey Cap Boulders. Pad is under a V-easy warm up...
Jockey Cap Boulders
BETA PHOTO: Jockey Cap Boulders
Jockey Cap Boulders
BETA PHOTO: Jockey Cap Boulders
Jockey Cap Boulders
BETA PHOTO: Jockey Cap Boulders
Jockey Cap Boulders
BETA PHOTO: Jockey Cap Boulders

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By Evan1984
Jul 29, 2009
We went out to see this place because I'd heard some good things.

Basically, the mosquitos drove us off in 10 minutes. They are worse than Alaska(at least on 7/28/09).

There look to be some cool boulders and some hard sport, but, IMHO, it is not worth the stop considering that cathederal and whitehorse are 30 minutes away.

  • **EDIT-UPDATE***
I went back a couple days this summer and mosquitos were much better, so I think it is hit or miss.

I found the moderate trad cragging, which looks fun. I didn't get that far the first visit before dropping of blood loss.

I'll definetly soften my criticism, but still don't really see myself stopping here unless I've climb so much out near Conway that I'm getting sick of it. I guess it just depends on your agenda.
By 000
From: Danvers, MA
Nov 22, 2009
I would whole-heartedly disagree with the sentiments of the op. This area is interesting and well worth the super short approach.

There are three main boulders that are easily accessed. Dr. Topo has a perfect guide that is easily understood and highly accurate. Each of the three boulders houses about 10-15 problems; a couple of which would be considered mega classics. A great area to bring beginners as well as intermediate V2-3 climbers.

I have yet to undertake any of the 5.6-9 trad climbs or the significantly more difficult sport routes. I plan to return this Saturday for some sport climbing and lead cragging, hopefully I'll be able to comment on the non-bouldering aspects of Jockey's Cap then.

As for mosquitos, you basically shouldn't be outside in ME between June and September. That being said, this is an interesting spot with a full afternoon's worth of climbing that might provide the perfect change of pace from Cathedral and White Horse.
By Steven James
From: Portland, Maine
May 1, 2013
As of 5/1/2013 the sport climb all the way to the right on the main wall has only one hanger without a rappel ring over the edge and no anchor above it which makes for very difficult cleaning of draws on the route. For clarity, this is NOT the sport climb way around the right end's corner.

For maybe twenty feet of climbing though; with large moves, positive holds, exciting heel hooks and a mantel top out, the route was definitely worth it. Felt easier than the grade in the "North Conway Rock Climbs" guidebook, but it is also my style of climbing, so who knows!
By Tristan Baldwin
From: Amherst, NH
Dec 1, 2013
The south face is very warm in the winter. I climbed this in about 25 degree weather, but bright sun. The rock was warm and climbing was very pleasant. I assume this area must be extremely hot in the summer on a sunny day. This area will certainly be my preferred winter sport crag.

Also a stick clip is mandatory! A groundfall would be disastrous as the routes start about 30' up a steep slab. Also a gear anchor for your belayer isn't a bad idea either.
By Mark Ra
From: Mid-Atlantic/CO
Oct 30, 2014
Trailhead parking is at the right end of the motel lot. There is now a porta-pot right next to the start of the trail. Stay right at the fork. You'll hit the boulder field in just a couple of minutes. If you go left you will see what looks like an old trail over by the store and eventually you'll hit a power line clear cut. So if you see the clear cut then turn around and go the other way. Ask me how I know.

I posted a few pictures of the boulders but am unsure of the routes. Some nice and easy stuff to play around on with good landings and extremely easy access. Lots of families hiking the dome.
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