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Job Security 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: RMWright, 1995
Page Views: 2,060
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 15, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (48)
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Koko looking tres-cool.

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  • Description 

    Job Security starts on the right sector by taking a shallow, right-facing, corner system. It can be done in two pitches.

    P1 has gotten more difficult with the loss of its hanging flake, and probably ticks in at 5.11 rather than 5.10.

    P2 has two 5.11 cruxes, the upper being thinner and a bit fingery.


    60 meter rope and either 15 draws or ten. Done as two pitches neither uses more than ten draws. Can be done as a single pitch, but this produces some rope drag.

    Photos of Job Security Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Koko feeling very secure.
    Koko feeling very secure.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Beautiful woman, lovely climber, loads of tenacity...
    Beautiful woman, lovely climber, loads of tenacity...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Contemplating the crux.
    Contemplating the crux.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Koko Kosila starting Job Security.
    Koko Kosila starting Job Security.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Koko dusting it.
    Koko dusting it.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Koko not even missing the flake.
    Koko not even missing the flake.
    Rock Climbing Photo: A breathtaking young gal from Argentina jumped on ...
    A breathtaking young gal from Argentina jumped on ...

    Comments on Job Security Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Walt Wehner
    Nov 16, 2001

    I agree with the comment about the rating. Did this a while ago and thought it was pretty desperate for 5.10. Felt like mid-5.11 (albeit only for a move or two) to me.

    By Richard M. Wright
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Nov 16, 2001

    N.B.: A hanging flake has broken off the entry moves making the start roughly mid 5.11. I'll make the notation change as soon I get a general consensus. My own run suggested something like 11b, but I'll buy whatever makes sense. Nontheless, I wish all you overloaded testosterone studs could have watched the stunning young Argentine crack it open - some women climbers just slay me. Her photos are a grave injustice.
    By Anonymous Coward
    May 22, 2003

    [Whoa] dude! That first pitch was certainly harder than I expected! I'm glad to hear the climb actually changed, rather than that I just suck. I would agree with the 11 rating, probably easier for taller people.mike.
    By desbien
    From: seattle,wa
    Nov 10, 2007
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    Good route, committing to move left at the crux.
    By Sam Benedict
    From: Denver, CO
    Mar 20, 2008

    This is a pretty bitchin' little climb. Best done as one long pitch I'd say. The crux at the 3rd clip is hilarious, and probably easier if your tall.
    By Geoff U
    From: Centennial, CO
    Feb 8, 2010
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    This is a great route and easily done as a single pitch with little rope drag if runners are used at the end of 1st pitch and start of 2nd.
    By Top Rope Hero
    From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
    Apr 26, 2010
    rating: 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a

    P1 MAY go at 10d if you're tall and you know where to look (see beta below).

    I don't exactly know where the first 5.11 crux is on P2 (didn't feel 11ish while onsighing) but the headwall crux just below the anchors probably goes at 10d if you move up and left on some obvious edges and crimpers, which of course steals the show. Instead (and we only discovered this on rappel), lieback right off the obvious rail at your waist and fire high and right to a can't-see-from-below jug, THEN take the headwall bulge at what promises to be 5.11 joy.

    SHAMELESS SPOILER BETA: P1, as I mentioned, might go at 10d if you're tall. At the small roof (B3 and 4), instead of reaching up and left to the chalked-up knob, keep your weight over your feet and reach way up and under the roof and use the force, Luke. A little high searching will reward you with the (hidden) undercling of the gods.
    By Ross
    From: Pinewood Springs
    Nov 24, 2011

    At P1 crux, one does not need to stay under the roof, instead go left for a great, exposed, R-facing lay back, awesome moves.

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