Jimmywacky 5.11d
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 300 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11d [details] |
| FA: | EFR, John Hayes, Virgil Davis |
| Submitted By: | Geir on Nov 23, 2008 |
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Closed from March 1 to June 30 MORE INFO >>>
Effective this date and until further notice, Special Closure Order 05-189, dated March 18, 2002, is hereby amended as follows:
All persons are permitted access into the “Squaretop Area, which includes all existing rock climbing sites and/or domes (i.e. Squaretop and Lower Squaretop), Dragoon Mountains in Township 17 South, Range 23 East, the East ½ of the Northeast ¼ of Section 27 and the Northeast ¼ of the Southeast ¼ of Section 27.
All persons are permitted access into or through Rockfellow Dome Park, Dragoon Mountains (Township 17, Range 23 East, West ½ Section 26) except as follows:
Unless exempt with a permit specifically authorizing the prohibited activity, no persons may be upon any part of Rockfellow Dome Complex and/or Cochise Dome (aka What’s My Line Dome) by rock climbing or any other means of access, annually from March 1st through June 30th; and/or
Unless exempt with a permit specifically authorizing the prohibited activity, no overnight camping is permitted within Rockfellow Dome Park (Township 17, Range 23 East, West ½ Section 26) annually from March 1st through June 30th.
Douglas Ranger District Tel: 520.364.6816.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description An excellent climb on beautiful, exposed rock. For those climbing at this grade, this climb should not be missed!
Pitch 1) Start in the same ramp/trough as Days of Future Passed. Continue up this feature until a bolt appears on your left. Make a hard move left, and continue up past two more bolts and tricky (but good) gear placements to a two bolt anchor.
Pitch 2) Hard face climbing past four bolts. The climbing eases to 5.9-5.10 after this point, and the bolts become spaced further. Continue along the bolts to the anchor at the end of pitch 3 of Endgame.
A topo for this climb can be downloaded by clicking this link:
www.geir.com/end%20pinnacle%20sw.pdf
While the second pitch of this climb is very difficult, the first pitch alone is excellent. You can rappel from the end of either pitch with two 60 meter ropes.
Location End Pinnacle, South Face.
Protection Bolts, stoppers, and a single set of cams to #4.
By Minty Alpinist
Dec 3, 2008
| Geir - I think your topo is missing a route between Jimmywacky and Days... |
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 3, 2008
| yes, that's correct. great gig in the sky is missing. i haven't climbed great gig yet. once i do, though, i'll be glad to add it to the topo (assuming i survive.)
:)
geir |
By Minty Alpinist
Jan 30, 2009
| Horse poo to you, RickD. That time you spent in Pensyltuckey must have really messed with your mind. Have you ever moved back to the desert?
We did not bail. You belayed me when I lead that spooky runout pitch. You were all over the bolt-minimizing fancy-pants belays where the first piece on the route was part of the belay. (Are two bolts still considered belay anchors if they're 15 vertical feet apart?) We were so messed up after that pitch we couldn't do the third. Late in the day and all that bs. That second pitch had maybe one bolt and three chicken necks to sling (could have used grey tape to hold the slings on the rock). The good news is that it's only vertical...
Maybe there's another RickD in the climbing world? |
By 1Eric Rhicard
Nov 13, 2012
| John Hayes was on the FA of the first pitch and I think Virgil Davis was with me on the second pitch. Pretty cool how exposed this climb is. |
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