Jimmy Cliff is a schist crag at Rumney that is really is composed of two separate walls that are in close proximity of each other. Locals refer to the whole crag simply as "Jimmy Cliff," but when a distinction needs to be made, people refer to either the left or right side of the crag. Both parts of Jimmy Cliff are situated high on Rattlesnake Mountain, which makes Jimmy Cliff one of the least "seepy" crags at Rumney. Both crags also tend to receive a breeze and partial or full sun. Taken together, these attributes make Jimmy cliff a good choice after a rain.
Jimmy Cliff sees it's fair share of traffic, especially as parties filter their way up from lower crags. Both sides of the crags have a number of easy and moderate climbs close together, which make them popular with large groups of beginners that are willing to walk more than 20 feet from the parking lot.
Notable climbs include the multipitch slab hike Clippidy-Do-Dah (5.5), the bouldery and short Things as They Are Now (5.12a), and Lonesome Dove (5.10a) a must-do four star slab climb that will leave aspiring rock jocks scratching their head.
The approach is maybe 20-30 minutes long. Avoid putting on that extra layer in the parking lot, because you'll probably be sweating by the time you reach the crag.
From the small Rumney parking lot, continue hiking down the nice graded trail paralleling Buffalo Road. Take the steep wooden staircase up the hill like you are going to the left side of the Main Cliff, but above the stairs take the Short Cut Trail left, which takes you above the 5.8 Crag and then up and above Monsters. Follow wooden signs for Darth Vader and Waimea. The first obvious crag you get to is Lower Darth Vader (Bonsai and Upper Darth can be seen above before you reach it). Continue left here, walking left on the talus below the crag, and up stone steps. The next crag you get to will be the impressive Waimea. After gawking at the wildly overhung climbs and possibly wildly hung over climbers, follow a short series of stone steps and safety lines up and right from waimea, take a left up the next obvious trail, which ascends to Jimmy Cliff. When you get to a fork in the trail, decide whether you want to go to the left or right end Jimmy Cliff.
Lonesome Dove climbs the blunt arete on the right side of the cliff. It is a fairly sustained slab route. I thought the crux was right around the second or third bolt. Above this, the climbing remains sustained, working up small edges and small holds. The last moves getting to the anchors are interesting. You can either go the right and undercling a large flake or use an easy crack system to the left. Fun route that is worth the wait. ...[more]Browse More Classics in NH
If your friends are trying climbing for the first time, are willing to take a little hike, and you want something harder to work on...give this crag a try you will not be disappointed. I brought a first time climber out and she onsighted one of the easy/moderates while the more experience climbers played on the 5.9's, 10's, and 12's. Good times. trust me.
The other day I dragged the trad gear up to Jimmy Cliff and i ended up leading the gully between clip-a-dee-do-dah and Lady and Tramp. it was fun but a little run out. should I post something like this or leave it as a comment?
By M Sprague Administrator From: New England May 21, 2010
The approach directions should really be changed to going up the Short Cut trail, rather than walking up the road. It is faster and eliminates friction with local drivers