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|Bastille - M-F closures. Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>|
This route is a variation of Reggae, above the first pitch of Calypso. Belay as to start Reggae, then go up that climb perhaps 8 meters. A sloping brown ramp is on your left. Place a few small wires with long slings then set left on the ramp and out to the arete to the left. Follow this arete up relatively untraveled (and unprotected) stone until it is possible (at the 5.7 level) to continue up and left to join Calypso or the dirtier crack just left of it again and belay on the ramp above. You may also continue for quite a distance on the arete, as far as you feel comfortable with no gear at all, to reach a broken band and walk-off ledge above and belay there, but this is X-rated and harder than 5.7...
About 18-25 meters of independent climbing, pretty good, but watch for lichens and runouts.
A set of stoppers and a set of cams. Long slings.
By Mike C. Robinson
From: Rumney, NH
Apr 26, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Fun route thought that the initial move around the corner was great, but then it is over.