Start as for Southeast Corner and climb up to the first belay. Straight above the belay is an obtuse corner; if you're unsure which crack it is, there are no continuous cracks to the right of it. There are two fixed pitons on this section. There are a few business moves on it, but it's over pretty quickly. Belay at anchor on a ledge to the left at 70 ft.
Step back to the right and continue up through shallow jams on slabby rock, over some ledgy ground, and up a steeply angled flared crack system to another large ledge and bolt anchor. Skip this and keep going up, taking the crack to the right of the anchor into a shallow corner and up to a dirty, grassy ledge and a final awkward stemming move up to a final anchor without webbing.
You can rap the route with a single 60m rope. You can also walk left of the final anchor and use another set of anchors (which route?) so that you're not coming down on top of parties coming up the Southeast Corner. Recommended.
From the top of the first pitch of SE Corner route, go straight up.
Gear to 2"
|By adam winslow|
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Mar 26, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
The flow of this route is GREATLY improved if the first rappel station from snag ledge is bypassed and the first 180' of this route is climbed as one pitch. After that their is still a second pitch (3rd pitch if you stop and belay at the rappel station) that ends at the grassy ledges.