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Penitente - Inner Canyon
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Unsorted Routes:

Jewel Of The Mild 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: McLaughlin, 1988
Page Views: 1,473
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 4, 2001
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K. McLaughlin -F.A. - Jewel of the Mild, 5.10.


Just before the second large drainage system entering the canyon from the right is a low angle slab with four good warm-up routes. Jewel of the Mild is the left of these and is arguably the best of the four. Run up on thin, shallow pockets and frictional slabbing to an edgy crux near the top. The lead can feel a bit spicy, so it is best to be comfortable at the grade. The climbing is in the sun most of the day; the stone is solid, and the climbing is interesting. The four lines in this sector are usually occupied, so arrive early or grab a number and wait in line.


Half a dozen draws and a rope.

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By Larry Earley
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 14, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Nice thin face climb. A little harder than nearby Children of a Lesser Grade (10c) but not as thin as Looney Tunes (10b/c). Long way to first bolt.

By Kevin Landolt
From: Fort Collins, Wyoming
Mar 18, 2011

Definitely a long way to the first bolt - well worth it though. Excellent.

Mar 29, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13

One of the best 5.10s in the canyon. That first bolt is darn high, though! If you're not super comfortable on mid 5.10 slab, a thick crash pad or a very long stick clip is helpful for some piece of mind.

By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Apr 17, 2011
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Great climb, Kev! If you're a little squimish about the high first bolt (even if your not), a bomber nut can be placed before committing to the face.

By Tim Waystrong
From: New Hampshire
Sep 4, 2011

You can also use a Black Diamond green C3 00 in the crack, just to the left of the beginning of the climb. This is an incredible climb.

By William Mondragon
From: My car
Feb 10, 2012

1st bolt is stupid high, I scare my belayer every time I start up this majestic slab. Oh yeah, and this route puts Children of a Lesser Grade to shame.