|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches, 550', Grade II|
|Original:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]|
|FA:||Malcolm Daly, Ed Eggers, 1974|
|Submitted By:||Aaron Martinuzzi on Feb 14, 2010|
|Comments on Jetstream Deluxe||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Aaron Martinuzzi
Feb 14, 2010
|While this route does include about 25 feet of unprotected face climbing, I gave it a "PG-13," rather than R, as the runout occurs on mostly positive holds on terrain far easier than the route's cruxes. The protection on the route's P1 crux can be tricky at times, but the rock is clean and good placements can be had with proper attention to detail and a diverse set of small pro. The 5.9 isn't at all stiff, and the grade seems to take into account the "spice" of the route in addition to the technical difficulties - none of the moves felt much harder than 9- on my ascent. The rock is clean and solid, and the climbing quite fun. Check it out!|
By Kevin Landolt
From: Fort Collins, Wyoming
Apr 11, 2010
|Another great moderate route. On the second pitch crux, I climbed up to the smooth looking corner to check it out (said hell no!) and slung the horn on that big block, down climbed a few feet and moved left out on the clean face (maybe sporty 10b?) to the obvious jugs on the face, which lead up and over to easier ground above. I'm not sure if this was the standard path, or if moving right to avoid the smooth corner thingy is standard. Either way, excellent pitch and fun route.|
By Malcolm Daly
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 31, 2010
I think I may have done the first ascent of this route in 1974 when Ed Eggers and I went up there with with my brand new rack (6 carabiners, 3 nuts and some slings), rope and Peter Limmer hiking boots. I didn't know too much about leading other than you needed gear at each belay and something in the middle, thus, three nuts. We walked around the base and found a crack that went up, and started climbing it. I ended up at the ledge with some junipers, below the smooth dihedral (I describe is looking up from inside a bathtub). I found a crack for one of my nuts and anchored in. It was spring and there was a bit of snow on the junipers so, when I started climbing up the "bathtub", stemming in my Limmers, it was pretty slippery. I'd stem up a ways then slide down and land on the bouncy junipers, then I'd do it again and get a little further, each time sliding back down the dihedral to bounce gently on the snowy junipers. When I finally made it out of the dihedral after probably 6 "slides" onto the junipers, I found myself on the long but easy slab. I climbed a ways up, found a slot or something for my nut, then climbed up to the next ledge and finished the route.
I don't recall too much about the route other than the vivid memories of the bathtub and the slab. The route description for Jetstream Deluxe describes the smooth dihedral almost exactly as I recall it so I'm pretty sure this was the route we climbed.
BTW, Ed had never climbed before (I taught him the hip belay at the base of the route) and I had never led a pitch before so neither of us had any idea that what we were doing was really, really stupid.