Type: Trad, 2250 ft (682 m), 12 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Dan Briley, Todd Kincaid
Page Views: 2,085 total · 17/month
Shared By: SenorDB on Dec 24, 2013
Admins: Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

P.1) Start in a shallow right facing dihedral at the next crack to the right of Big Sky. After 10' move left and follow the crack that forms the left side of the rock stack that made the dihedral. Go up to a ledge and through a short chimney then go left across sloper ledges to a crack (Big Sky) and up to the large owl cove.200' 5.5
P.2) Angle out the owl cove on the crack to the right. After 40' follow a crack that diverges left, peters out to face, and straight up to a nice ledge at 200'. Simul climb or short pitch 40' to the next ledge and base of the white/black dihedral. 240' 5.5
P.3) Climb the dihedral past a steep section. Belay at a sloper stance before the trees when the crack bends onto the right side of the huge pillar that forms the first half of the climb. 180' 5.7
P.4) Climb out left onto the center or so of the pillar. Near the end of a rope length there is a belay stance on the right side of the face, run out but easy. 200' 5.4
P.5) Climb straight up and angle to the left side of the pillar. The last 15' is a pro-less head wall that caps the pillar. Where the slab meets the head wall go around the left side of the pillar onto a hidden ramp/ledge with protection. 200' 5.5
From the top of this pillar go up the gully behind until an exposed discontinuous ledge goes back left across a cliff onto the main ramp that separates First Creek Slabs from the Labyrinth Wall and then down to the large pine tree and campsite that mark the rappels to the wash.
P.6) Start behind the pine tree. To the right of a right facing chimney/offwidth, climb an hourglass shaped flake up to the crack that tarts 30' up. When the crack eases off and widens, angle up and right across easy run out slabs to a small pine tree on a ledge at the base of an awesome dihedral. 200' 5.9
P.7) Climb the dihedral passing a camouflaged microwave sized loose block to a weakness and small ledge on the right. 100' 5.10
P.8) Go right, into the chimney on the backside of the dihedral, climb up about 80' and exit the chimney to the right on a crack that becomes a small ramp leading to the large bushy ledge. This and the next pitch likely take the same line as The Guinness Book. 175' 5.9
P.9) From the bottom right side of this ledge, traverse 15' right to a crack. Follow this crack (which becomes the right side of the huge channel) up past a couple trees and belay at a comfortable stance when the crack widens. 180' 5.8
P.10) Leave the crack to the left and face climb the prow next to the crack with some gear for 40' or so then angle left to the base of a shallow right facing dihedral that begins at a head wall. Climb the dihedral 40-50' getting some shaky RPs and TCUs. When you realize the climbing is pro-less 5.10, step left onto the arete where its only pro-less 5.9 (this is a 50-60' run out). Belay on a ledge that forms the bottom of a large rectangular recess in the center of the channel. 200' 5.10
P.11) From the left end of the belay ledge, climb left into the crack round the corner. Follow till the end of the rope and belay on a comfortable but small ledge to the right. 200' 5.9
P.12) Follow easy discontinuous cracks and slabs up and right to the top at the center of the huge channel. 200' 5.7

Location Suggest change

This climb starts at the wash and the first half shares the same line as Lady Luck, with the exception of the first 1.5 and last pitches, then from the main ramp goes mostly up the center of the channel that divides Labyrinth Wall.

Protection Suggest change

stoppers, cams up to #4Camalot

Photos

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