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Sundance Buttress
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Whiteman T 

Jet Stream 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Kimball, Harrison, 1980.
Page Views: 415
Submitted By: S. Kimball on Jan 1, 2005

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Description 

This is an interesting route up the left arete of the Dalke/Covington flake. Avoid the initial, testy 5.10 via the uphill gully. This makes it a pleasant 5.9 route.

P1. Begin 50' right of The Nose, past a smooth slab (Indian Burn), at a pencil thin crack just left of a gully. 1. Do the thin crack (poor pro). Angle left and up a nice, parallel-sided hand/finger crack. Face climb right (5.9) then go back left to a small ledge, 150'.

P2. Go up blocky 5.6/7 cracks to next ledge. Make easy but exposed steps around the arete leftward and join Dalke/Covington route for the next 70'. The original Jet Stream went quickly back right to the arete. That is blocky and dirty and ends at the same finish as this 3rd pitch.

P3. To the right is a red wall. Take a steep, clean and juggy finger/hand crack line that shots to the arete, excellent 5.8/9. Pass where Covert Action connects(5.7)and finish atop the Dalke/Covington flake, 100'.

P4. Continue with Dalke/Covington route or 3rd class down grassy ramp to treeslung anchors.

Rap carefully 120' to the walk off gully.

Protection 

Standard plus micro nuts.


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By Ross
From: Pinewood Springs
Apr 2, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R

Positioning on the arete is great. We picked a windy day to climb this great route today.
Used a pocket on right for pro (gold Camalot) at beginning. The first pitch was very long 55m?, and the traverse left at its second crux was very exciting.