Jesus Wall Right (aka Boche Death Route) 5.10c
| 469 page views Good page?  |
| Type: | TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c [details] |
| FA: | Ken Boche 1965 (aid on lead) FFA unknown |
| Submitted By: | Jordan Ramey on Feb 19, 2007 |
| |
Noreen Flynn on the very thin section leading up t...
Add Photo Printer View
Description A great and intricate route. Easy climbing up ledges leads to a horizontal crack/overlap, there's a way over on the right onto steep, exposed moves to a semi-rest. Trend right and up to gain the diagonal line pockets rising leftwards, follow these with much excitement to a tricky mantel onto the upper section of wall - steep cruxy stuff here leads upwards all the way to the top. Note Boche Death Route is an aid route that climbs the crack before transitioning onto the diagonal line of pockets, Jesus Wall Right free climbs (on TR) up the face and over the overlap to the left of the crack.
Location The right edge of the Wall, then trending diagonally left.
Protection Toprope anchor consists of a poor gnarly old tree, and cracks for small pieces. There's lot's of superfluous bolts at Stoney - a nice fat three bolt anchor here, sensibly placed would be a good thing.
| Comments on Jesus Wall Right (aka Boche Death Route) |
|
By Jordan Ramey From: Calgary, Alberta Jun 12, 2007
| Anchor? Up and left (in the topo photo) there is an anchor on the face that can be reached from the top. It consists of 2 old scheisty homemade things and two better looking newer bolts (good?). Probably good and maybe put a backup sling to something else. |
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake Jul 8, 2007
| Trust no single bolt at Stoney - it's not the bolt material that's suspect, it's the rock. |
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake May 7, 2011
| Adjusted accordingly - Ryan, any information on early first ascents or names is greatly appreciated, first and foremost I'm interested in recording history and new information will be recorded in the next edition of Urban Rock. |
|