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Jesus Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Central Route TR 
Jesus Wall Left TR 
Jesus Wall Right (aka Boche Death Route) TR 
Left Edge TR 
Main Chimney T 
Old Aid Bolt Ladder T 

Jesus Wall Right (aka Boche Death Route) 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ken Boche 1965 (aid on lead) FFA unknown
Page Views: 623
Submitted By: Jordan Ramey on Feb 19, 2007

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Noreen Flynn on the very thin section leading up t...

Description 

A great and intricate route.

Easy climbing up ledges leads to a horizontal crack/overlap, there's a way over on the right onto steep, exposed moves to a semi-rest. Trend right and up to gain the diagonal line pockets rising leftwards, follow these with much excitement to a tricky mantel onto the upper section of wall - steep cruxy stuff here leads upwards all the way to the top.

Note
Boche Death Route is an aid route that climbs the crack before transitioning onto the diagonal line of pockets, Jesus Wall Right free climbs (on TR) up the face and over the overlap to the left of the crack.


Location 

The right edge of the Wall, then trending diagonally left.


Protection 

Toprope anchor consists of a poor gnarly old tree, and cracks for small pieces. There's lot's of superfluous bolts at Stoney - a nice fat three bolt anchor here, sensibly placed would be a good thing.



Comments on Jesus Wall Right (aka Boche Death Route) Add Comment
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By Jordan Ramey
From: Calgary, Alberta
Jun 12, 2007

Anchor? Up and left (in the topo photo) there is an anchor on the face that can be reached from the top. It consists of 2 old scheisty homemade things and two better looking newer bolts (good?). Probably good and maybe put a backup sling to something else.

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jul 8, 2007

Trust no single bolt at Stoney - it's not the bolt material that's suspect, it's the rock.

By ryan mattock
Apr 3, 2010

please check out this Stoney point thread on Supertopo!
bolt replacement plus F.A route respect given to Ken Boche! boche death route!
www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=971616&tn=0&m>>>

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
May 7, 2011

Adjusted accordingly - Ryan, any information on early first ascents or names is greatly appreciated, first and foremost I'm interested in recording history and new information will be recorded in the next edition of Urban Rock.