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Jesus Christ Super Jew 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Aaron Huey
Page Views: 395
Submitted By: Derek Lawrence on Aug 22, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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The Fabulous Gordini starting the fun upper half

Description 

Climb the hand crack to an optional anchor (5.9 to here). Skip the anchor and follow the flared corner on stems, pockets and finger locks to the upper anchor. FUN!

Location 

Right side of Metropolis

Protection 

16 bolts plus anchors


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By Top Rope Hero
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
Oct 3, 2011
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

A note on the "10d" first pitch.

Er.....WHAT?!?!

Guys. There's this thing? It's called technique?

Anywhere on the planet, this little jam beauty would easily go at 9, as Lawrence here has it. NOT 10d as the new guidebook has it. Probably an 8 in Yosum.

I KNOW grade inflation pumps the ego...but PUHL-EEZE! Let's AT LEAST keep it somewhere in the neighborhood of real.
By Mike Snyder
Administrator
Sep 3, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Yes the new guidebook has the brilliant first pitch at 5.10d. Please remember that Aaron Huey and many of the regular 1st ascentionists in Ten Sleep are sport climbers and really don't have good 'technique' for cracks. That being said I would place it at .10- based on the first two or three moves alone. I have climbed most of the 5.11's in Tensleep and somehow I glossed over this beautiful gem. This is perhaps one of Ten Sleeps finest climbs of any grade. The guidebook also says 'you must do the whole thing - DON'T JUST DO THE BOTTOM!' I defintely agree.
By Kenan
Sep 3, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

This route is amazing! A 50-foot hand crack followed by a 50-foot steep pocketed dihedral?! So classic! It has a very adventurous feel, and is quite uncharacteristic of Ten Sleep with the pure crack start.

I'd have to agree that the crack is probably 5.9, despite it feeling much harder to people without crack climbing experience.

The moves and position up high are really stellar. To echo the sentiment: YOU MUST DO THE UPPER PART!!