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Jesus and Tequila  

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: John Scott, Dave Groth- 1988
Season: fall/spring
Page Views: 3,235
Submitted By: ChanVan on Apr 4, 2009
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Jesus and Tequila

Description 

One of the coolest sport climbs I've ever done. This route has a lot of character- overhanging face, balancy arete, hard and memorable crux, exciting dihedral, and a cruel joke finish- Go do it.


Location 

On the arete to climber's left of the Quinsana roof- there's a big boulder that you lean over to the wall from to start- rap down or walk over to the ladder


Protection 

9 bolts and a 2 bolt anchor



Photos of Jesus and Tequila Slideshow Add Photo
Big sports action
Big sports action
Jeremy Steck, at the 4th clip on Jesus and Tequila.
Jeremy Steck, at the 4th clip on Jesus and Tequila...
Comments on Jesus and Tequila Add Comment
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By sean barb
From: winston salem, north carolina,
Apr 7, 2009

classic! i repeated this one many times because it is that good. a good 'barometer' route to know if you're on form for the harder endless wall testpieces.

By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
Oct 4, 2009

Fantastic route. Must do.

By Jeremy Steck
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 1, 2010

Great climb! Many have said that this is the best 5.12b in the gorge. Stick clip the first bolt and start from the top of the boulder by leaning across the gap to reach the first holds. Once established on the face, climb up and around to the right of the arete and back to the left side to clip the 2nd bolt. From here, work up the left side of the arete to the 5th bolt. Clipping the 5th bolt is difficult and much easier if the draws are hung. The crux begins at the 5th bolt. Utilize several crimps and find a way to gain the positive hold above at the base of a shallow dihedral. From here, continue up the dihedral, make a long move and continue up the next dihedral to reach the overhang. Make the final clip and find the crimp above to work out left a bit and follow a few positive slopers to the finish (redpoint crux).

By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Jun 17, 2013

So, I guess that this comment is as good for Jesus and Tequila as anywhere else; in the guidebook, it mentions a good 11d that starts on Sacrilege to the left, and then takes a hand traverse into the upper third dihedral of Jesus and Tequila. I did this the other day; you start traversing right when you are below the fixed pin on Sacrilege, and it's a really good route! Probably around 11d.