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 ADVANCED
West Wall Inner (Jane's Addiction Area)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Avant Cave T 
Avant Chain S 
Avant Savant T 
Avant Yvonne (aka Read my Flips) S 
Avanti T 
Don't Touch Jessica's Crack TR 
Jane's Addiction S 
Jessica's Crack T 
Shaking Hands with the Unemployed T 
Smashing Pumpkins S 

Jessica's Crack 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Dave Evans, December 1974
Page Views: 800
Submitted By: Mark J. Nelson on Nov 2, 2002

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BETA PHOTO: Hall of Horrors West Wall East Face

Description 

Park at the Hall of Horrors pullout, in front of North Horror Rock. Follow the marked trail around to the left, at which point the East Face of the East Wall of the Hall of Horrors will come into view. Keep walking around this rock on the left, then right into the Hall of Horrors proper. The East Face of the West Wall will be on your left.

In the middle of this face is an obvious, short, wide crack. Approach by walking past, then back left to the base of the crack on top of a ledge.

Vertical, reasonable protected, very short.

Descend from chains atop the face to the right. One 50m rope will get you all the way past the base of the climb and back to the ground.


Protection 

Standard rack up to #4 Camalot; save the #4 for the belay anchor.



Photos of Jessica's Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Jessica's Crack
BETA PHOTO: Jessica's Crack
Albert Rameriz having a fun lead on Jessica's Crack, belayed by Nathan Fitzhugh with Marta Molina looking on. 2-5-11
Albert Rameriz having a fun lead on Jessica's Crac...
Comments on Jessica's Crack Add Comment
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By David Evans
Mar 17, 2004
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This route was not named after Jessica (?) who was Bullwinkle's girlfriend for awhile. It is named after an early slutty girlfriend of mine who had just rejected me in favor of a big geeky knucklehead (Bearamiah Butt Fu..). Not that I'm still bitter! The route at the time of my FA solo was loose and pilish.

By Infernal Doom Fanatic
Oct 1, 2004
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Can't reccomend this one, very unpleasant crack climbing with tricky and dubious pro placements. Not reccomended for begining leaders and a boring top rope.Go and do Lickety Splits instead.

By namascar
Jan 24, 2005
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Despite the rate, it is not a climb for beginners. The top can be awkward for them. But the protection is super bomber everywhere.

By Dustysdawg
Jan 24, 2005
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

The only problem with this route is that it is too short. The gear is bomber. The beginning is fun crack/face climbing. The top is a great introduction to off-width crack climbing. The biggest cam you need is only a 3.5. Go on up and get in it!!!

By David Evans
Jan 27, 2005
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I named this route after an early (neurotic) girlfriend (well at least I thought I wanted her as such) who done me wrong. On the FA the crack was VERY loose (like her). It must have cleaned up to get any stars at all.

By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 19, 2007

My only problem with this climb is that it's too damn short. Otherwise, a fun little route.

By Gary Schenk
Mar 17, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I liked it.