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Jerry's Quarry and Lost Pencil Areas

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Cheyenne Social Club, The 
Harry's Quarry 
Jerry's Quarry 
Lost Pencil 
Rocky Marciano 
Skyscraper Rock 

Jerry's Quarry and Lost Pencil Areas Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 4,000'
Location: 33.9523, -116.0986 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 7,443
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Steve Juhasz on Mar 14, 2003
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Lost Pencil. Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

Contains a mix of fine climbs, near to the Geology Tour Road. Easy to find using Randy Vogel's guidebook. One route on Jerry's Quarry stands out as perhaps the best pure finger-crack in America. Equinox is an outstanding route, as it appears to be the only "natural" weakness up a 90 foot tall boulder. This area is quite remote and does not see much traffic so expect a total absence of engine noise and gawking tourists.

Getting There 

Take geology tour road south for about 3.7 miles to pullout #5. This is clearly marked with a brown plastic post, and is on the right-hand (west) side of the road. Beyond pullout #5, the road deteriorates significantly, becoming passable only in 4WD vehicle.

Climbing Season



Weather station 12.8 miles from here

22 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',12],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',2],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',8],['5.11',6],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Jerry's Quarry and Lost Pencil Areas

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Jerry's Quarry and Lost Pencil Areas:
Sexy Bolt   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Lost Pencil
Elephant Walk   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Jerry's Quarry
Equinox   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Jerry's Quarry
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Jerry's Quarry and Lost Pencil Areas

Featured Route For Jerry's Quarry and Lost Pencil Areas
Rock Climbing Photo: Some old guy leading No. 2 - Simon Carter photo - ...

Number Two (aka the Weasel Boys Arete) 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Lost Pencil
A boulder problem start leads into continuous and technical climbing along the arete with great exposure and positioning. Four stars out of five. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Jerry's Quarry and Lost Pencil Areas Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jerry's Quarry
Jerry's Quarry
Rock Climbing Photo: Lost Pencil area. Galapagos in background. Photo b...
Lost Pencil area. Galapagos in background. Photo b...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jerry's Quarry area. Photo by Blitzo.
Jerry's Quarry area. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jerry's Quarry. Photo by Blitzo.
Jerry's Quarry. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking west to the Lost Pencil, Joshua Tree NP
Looking west to the Lost Pencil, Joshua Tree NP

Comments on Jerry's Quarry and Lost Pencil Areas Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 15, 2004
Ahhh! The Lost Pencil.My girlfriend and I Hiked all the way out to it, did the approach pitch, and then bailed. The crux was the first fifteen feet protected by one bolt and involved bold manteling above the bolt. I couldn't summon the nads so we rapped of the bail biner that was already there. I was bummed. This is like a "Headstone" but in the middle of nowhere, or so it seems. Apparently there is a new route called No. 2 on the left arete. I couldn't get off the ground. What a fuckin' day.
By Mark J Gain
Oct 29, 2004
The left route on the Lost Pencil is a good route, 5.11 or so. Well bolted and fun edging, if thats whats fun? it is to me...
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 31, 2004
By the "left route" you mean the one with the new bolts? That thing felt harder than 11b to me.

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