Jerry's Quarry and Lost Pencil Areas Rock Climbing
Lost Pencil. Photo by Blitzo.
Contains a mix of fine climbs, near to the Geology Tour Road. Easy to find using Randy Vogel's guidebook. One route on Jerry's Quarry stands out as perhaps the best pure finger-crack in America. Equinox is an outstanding route, as it appears to be the only "natural" weakness up a 90 foot tall boulder. This area is quite remote and does not see much traffic so expect a total absence of engine noise and gawking tourists.
Take geology tour road south for about 3.7 miles to pullout #5. This is clearly marked with a brown plastic post, and is on the right-hand (west) side of the road. Beyond pullout #5, the road deteriorates significantly, becoming passable only in 4WD vehicle.
Climbing Season For the Geology Tour Road area.
Weather station 12.8 miles from here
22 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',12],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Jerry's Quarry and Lost Pencil Areas
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Jerry's Quarry and Lost Pencil Areas
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Jerry's Quarry and Lost Pencil Areas:
Featured Route For Jerry's Quarry and Lost Pencil Areas
Equinox 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b CA
: Joshua Tree National Park
: ... : Jerry's Quarry
The line of the route is not hard to spot. It is a unique crack up the vertical west face of the giant boulder which forms the summit of Jerry's Quarry. The start of the crack is thin fingers, and is is covered partially by a huge "ear-like" flake. Mantle onto this, and continue up the thin crack with increasing difficulty. The crux comes at about 25 feet when the footholds vanish and the face overhangs a degree or two past vertical. After this, some nice finger locks replace the desperate finge...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
Lost Pencil area. Galapagos in background. Photo b...
Jerry's Quarry area. Photo by Blitzo.
Jerry's Quarry. Photo by Blitzo.
Looking west to the Lost Pencil, Joshua Tree NP
|Comments on Jerry's Quarry and Lost Pencil Areas
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 15, 2004
Ahhh! The Lost Pencil.My girlfriend and I Hiked all the way out to it, did the approach pitch, and then bailed. The crux was the first fifteen feet protected by one bolt and involved bold manteling above the bolt. I couldn't summon the nads so we rapped of the bail biner that was already there. I was bummed. This is like a "Headstone" but in the middle of nowhere, or so it seems. Apparently there is a new route called No. 2 on the left arete. I couldn't get off the ground. What a fuckin' day.
By Mark J Gain
Oct 29, 2004
The left route on the Lost Pencil is a good route, 5.11 or so. Well bolted and fun edging, if thats whats fun? it is to me...
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 31, 2004
By the "left route" you mean the one with the new bolts? That thing felt harder than 11b to me.