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Jerry's Quarry and Lost Pencil Areas

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Cheyenne Social Club, The 
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Jerry's Quarry and Lost Pencil Areas  


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Elevation: 4,000'
Location: 33.9523, -116.0986 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 68,137
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Steve Juhasz on Mar 14, 2003
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Lost Pencil area. Galapagos in background. Photo b...

Description 

Contains a mix of fine climbs, near to the Geology Tour Road. Easy to find using Randy Vogel's guidebook. One route on Jerry's Quarry stands out as perhaps the best pure finger-crack in America. Equinox is an outstanding route, as it appears to be the only "natural" weakness up a 90 foot tall boulder. This area is quite remote and does not see much traffic so expect a total absence of engine noise and gawking tourists.

Getting There 

Take geology tour road south for about 3.7 miles to pullout #5. This is clearly marked with a brown plastic post, and is on the right-hand (west) side of the road. Beyond pullout #5, the road deteriorates significantly, becoming passable only in 4WD vehicle.

Climbing Season



Weather station 12.8 miles from here

18 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',12],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',7],['5.11',6],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Jerry's Quarry and Lost Pencil Areas:
Equinox   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Jerry's Quarry
Browse More Classics in Jerry's Quarry and Lost Pencil Areas

Featured Route For Jerry's Quarry and Lost Pencil Areas
onsight attempt

Equinox 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Jerry's Quarry
The line of the route is not hard to spot. It is a unique crack up the vertical west face of the giant boulder which forms the summit of Jerry's Quarry. The start of the crack is thin fingers, and is is covered partially by a huge "ear-like" flake. Mantle onto this, and continue up the thin crack with increasing difficulty. The crux comes at about 25 feet when the footholds vanish and the face overhangs a degree or two past vertical. After this, some nice finger locks replace the desperate finge...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Local Information for Jerry's Quarry and Lost Pencil Areas
Photos of Jerry's Quarry and Lost Pencil Areas Slideshow Add Photo
Jerry's Quarry
Jerry's Quarry
Jerry's Quarry area. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Jerry's Quarry area. Photo by Blitzo.
Lost Pencil. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Lost Pencil. Photo by Blitzo.
Jerry's Quarry. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Jerry's Quarry. Photo by Blitzo.
Looking west to the Lost Pencil, Joshua Tree NP
Looking west to the Lost Pencil, Joshua Tree NP

Comments on Jerry's Quarry and Lost Pencil Areas Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Aug 15, 2004
Ahhh! The Lost Pencil.My girlfriend and I Hiked all the way out to it, did the approach pitch, and then bailed. The crux was the first fifteen feet protected by one bolt and involved bold manteling above the bolt. I couldn't summon the nads so we rapped of the bail biner that was already there. I was bummed. This is like a "Headstone" but in the middle of nowhere, or so it seems. Apparently there is a new route called No. 2 on the left arete. I couldn't get off the ground. What a fuckin' day.
By Mark J Gain
Oct 29, 2004
The left route on the Lost Pencil is a good route, 5.11 or so. Well bolted and fun edging, if thats whats fun? it is to me...
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 31, 2004
By the "left route" you mean the one with the new bolts? That thing felt harder than 11b to me.