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West Face
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Wrong Way (direct start to One Way Sunset) T 

Jerry's Kids 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 1985- Schlinkmann, Pee Pee, Fisher
Page Views: 806
Submitted By: nolteboy on Sep 5, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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A route that is better than it looks from the grou...

Voluntary Closure Every June and Seasonal Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Although probably not a route that you're going to roadtrip to the Tower to do, this pitch is pretty worthwhile, especially as a warmup for MR. CLEAN (if TULGEY WOOD is occupied). Some stemming (can ya believe that?), a small roof or two, and generally "cerebral" the whole way- not just a stem-it or plug-it pitch, but one to get those neurons firing...

Location 

Take the West Face approach. If you can locate the route MR. CLEAN, this route is about 6 or 7 crack systems to the left of it, and climbs an inside corner between two pillars which terminate in ledges about 120 feet up (the left-hand pillar has a large square-cut roof above it).

This route is the 2nd crack to the right of BLOODGUARD.

Protection 

Mostly stoppers and smallish cams, with a medium cam or two nearer the top. Three bolts provide protection when the crack seams down. Overall protection is good - better than it looks from below.


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By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
May 22, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

Make sure you bring a set of offset nuts (7-11) for this climb. You will miss a couple bomber placements, if you don't.