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West Face
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A Bridge Too Far 
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California Dreaming 
Carl's Face 
Carol's Crack 
Dead Point 
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Digital Extraction 
Double Feature 
El Matador 
Fractal 
Harkness variation 
Heatwave 
Jerry's Kids 
La Vaca Solitaria 
Lack of Enthusiasm 
Livin' the Dream 
Man Without a Planet 
McCarthy West Face (Variant) 
McCarthy West Face/Hong 
Mr. Clean 
Mystery Express 
No Holds for Bonzo 
One Way Sunset 
Park Politics 
Scottfree 
Some Like it Hot 
Spank The Monkey 
Steal Away 
Tulgey Wood 
Up In Smoke 
Way Layed 
Wrong Way (direct start to One Way Sunset) 

Jerry's Kids 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 1985- Schlinkmann, Pee Pee, Fisher
Page Views: 753
Submitted By: nolteboy on Sep 5, 2006
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A route that is better than it looks from the grou...
Voluntary Closure Every June and Seasonal Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Although probably not a route that you're going to roadtrip to the Tower to do, this pitch is pretty worthwhile, especially as a warmup for MR. CLEAN (if TULGEY WOOD is occupied). Some stemming (can ya believe that?), a small roof or two, and generally "cerebral" the whole way- not just a stem-it or plug-it pitch, but one to get those neurons firing...


Location 

Take the West Face approach. If you can locate the route MR. CLEAN, this route is about 6 or 7 crack systems to the left of it, and climbs an inside corner between two pillars which terminate in ledges about 120 feet up (the left-hand pillar has a large square-cut roof above it).

This route is the 2nd crack to the right of BLOODGUARD.


Protection 

Mostly stoppers and smallish cams, with a medium cam or two nearer the top. Three bolts provide protection when the crack seams down. Overall protection is good - better than it looks from below.



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By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
May 22, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13

Make sure you bring a set of offset nuts (7-11) for this climb. You will miss a couple bomber placements, if you don't.