Jerry's Kids  5.10b

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet Consensus:  5.10 [details] FA:  1985- Schlinkmann, Pee Pee, Fisher Submitted By:  nolteboy on Sep 5, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

A route that is better than it looks from the grou...

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Devils Tower National Monument Lifts Current Prairie Falcon Climbing Route Closure MORE INFO >>> 07/01/2012: Because no falcon nesting activity has been observed, the prairie falcon nesting closures currently in effect will be removed on Sunday, July 1, thus opening these areas to normal recreational climbing activities. The areas to be reopened include on the northeast face, routes between and including “Belle Fourche Buttress” and “Maid in the Shaid” (routes #68 to #93), as well as the “North Face” rappel route. Separate from the falcon closure, Devils Tower National Monument has a voluntary climbing closure in effect for the month of June, out of respect for American Indian cultural traditions. For further information on climbing closures, please contact the monument’s Chief of Resource Management, Angela Wetz, at (307) 467-5283 ext 212 or Angela_Wetz@nps.gov. For general climbing information please contact the Devils Tower Climbing Office at 307-467-5283, ext. 632. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Although probably not a route that you're going to roadtrip to the Tower to do, this pitch is pretty worthwhile, especially as a warmup for MR. CLEAN (if TULGEY WOOD is occupied). Some stemming (can ya believe that?), a small roof or two, and generally "cerebral" the whole way- not just a stem-it or plug-it pitch, but one to get those neurons firing...

Location 

Take the West Face approach. If you can locate the route MR. CLEAN, this route is about 6 or 7 crack systems to the left of it, and climbs an inside corner between two pillars which terminate in ledges about 120 feet up (the left-hand pillar has a large square-cut roof above it).

This route is the 2nd crack to the right of BLOODGUARD.

Protection 

Mostly stoppers and smallish cams, with a medium cam or two nearer the top. Three bolts provide protection when the crack seams down. Overall protection is good - better than it looks from below.