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Some are content to climb only the classic routes of Eldorado that are chalked from top to bottom and worn smooth from the pitons of yesterday and the loving hands and feet of today. This is a classic Eldorado route of a different nature. It is unlikely to have chalk and the exquisite dihedral on the second pitch appears to never have been pitoned. This dihedral is how the first pitch of the Naked Edge might have looked before all the enthusiastic hammering occurred during the Golden Age.
This route is located between Knight's Move
and Black Out
and contains an obvious flared, slightly overhanging dihedral on its second pitch.
Pitch 1 (5.9 s): Begin on Knight's Move
and after ten feet cut out left on dubious flakes and lichen covered terrain, sling a small tree and then head straight up thin cracks (RPs) on the arete to a terrible belay stance. Load up the crack in the dihedral with tiny nuts and put in some better gear (#1.5 and #2 Friends) down and right from the stance. It might be wiser to do a hanging belay from the cams down and to the right. Either way, it's not a great place to be hanging out.
Pitch 2 (5.11c s): The second pitch climbs straight up the steep, beautiful dihedral which is too small to accept fingers. Intially the dihedral protects with RPs and the smallest TCUs. A "thank god" fixed nut is located about 10 feet up and the belayer's nervous twitches and spasms should subside when it's clipped and they are no longer the landing zone for the leader. I give the start of this pitch a "serious" rating. A combination of stemming, pressing, scumming and squirmming is required to gain ground. Just when this combination becomes bleak there are some face holds outside the dihedral on the left hand side. Climb through a small roof and make some hard moves with much better gear. Continue over easier terrain up and right to a ledge with a tree festooned with rappel slings.
Descend by rapping Knight's Move
. A 60m rope will just make the first of two rappels
Lots of small gear - 2 sets RPs #00 & #0 TCUs plus standard Eldo rack.
By david goldstein
Jul 4, 2003
An excellent climb, esp. for the West Ridge. P1 is a legitimate S, but is pretty easy for the grade. P2 is quite well protected, starting w/ RPs and working up to bigger nuts. As of this writing, very little chalk to guide the way on this one. The belay at the end of pitch 1 is not that bad.
Two good pitches, very little crap rock -- a West Ridge three star.
By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 21, 2003
While this is a great route, don't expect much room for mistakes. You should be at your best when you do this one. A fall in the opening moves of the second pitch could very easily rip any small gear out (its not really that great) and maybe even the belay (it would probably hold but do you want to be the one to test it?). The sketchy gear aside, this is a wonderful climb and sustained by eldo standards.
By topher donahue
Nov 23, 2008
The crux feels way safer if you take extra long slings, be careful of how you run the rope on the first pitch, and link both pitches as one 55 meter lead. It goes super smooth as one pitch and makes a lot more sense - unless you are using a 150' rope like Chris and George probably were on the FA.