Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Scoop Area
Select Route:
anaconda 
General Lee 
Jeremy's Sick Crimps  
Lumberjack 
Next Message, The 
Reverse Scoop 
Scoop, The 
Teachers Pet 

Jeremy's Sick Crimps  

Hueco: V4+ Font: 6B+

   
Type:  Boulder, 5'
Consensus:  Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 703
Submitted By: andyscott on Dec 22, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

A one move wonder. Grab two small crimps. The right one is really thin and a little bit higher up than the left crimp of which is slopey. Grab the holds pull of the ground and shoot for the slopey lip of General Lee. Top out the same for General Lee.

Location 

On the same small boulder as General Lee.

Protection 

One pad


Comments on Jeremy's Sick Crimps Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 19, 2014
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Oct 17, 2012

Footage of this problem starts at 1:46

Are these the correct starting holds? If so, this felt easier than v9 to me...
By Ryan HInrichs
From: amherst new hampshire
Apr 6, 2013

Sent this today using some different foot beta. Not sure what is considered "on" but i used a heel toe cam on the starting hold of general lee. Anybody know what the consensus on this is? Felt way easier.
By Noah Doherty
From: Nashua, NH
Apr 8, 2013

With the right beta this is v6 at most. You can start with a heel toe cam in the start hold of general lee to make it feel v4 and a foot way out left to make it feel v6. It is super fun though, a wild start to a classic slopey moves.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Apr 8, 2013

Noah, I think that's a fair assessment. I didn't use a heel toe cam (see the video above) but I did put my feet out right (right foot on, left foot flagged a bit). Even without the heel toe cam, it's probably closer to v5/6 (maybe). You'd have to really be using no technique at all to make this feel v9. :)
By Noah Doherty
From: Nashua, NH
Apr 9, 2013

I totally agree. I think people used the awkward foot in the hole and attempt to pull on with their weight all behind them. I can imagine it feels v9 that way.
By Noah Doherty
From: Nashua, NH
Oct 26, 2013

This is the heel toe cam.
Here is the heel toe cam beta.
Here is the heel toe cam beta.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Nov 25, 2013
rating: V4 6B

The heel-toe came makes it v4, I can see with your feet directly below you how it could feel v9 though. Anybody think an Admin or OP should update the grade?
By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Manchester, NH
Nov 25, 2013
rating: V9 7C

Something to think about - if you read the original description of this problem in one of the first guides, it's a dyno. If you view it as the left sit start to General Lee and throw in a heel-toe cam, or apply any amount of technique to a problem that never got much thought, it doesn't have to be a dyno, but at that point, are you even climbing the same problem? So we have two start holds and grades of V4, V5/6, and V8/9 all depending on where you put your feet. Is any one of them more "right" than the other?
By Lanky
From: Portland, ME
Nov 25, 2013

IDK, Bryce. I think I'd call the original method an eliminate if much easier beta is available. Just because the first folks to try it didn't find the beta doesn't mean it's not there.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Nov 25, 2013
rating: V4 6B

I agree with Lanky, I have always thought that you should post the most natural version of the climb and mention any eliminates or variations in the description.
By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Manchester, NH
Nov 25, 2013
rating: V9 7C

In this case, the name and grade always referred to the dyno - which is an eliminate. Maybe the non-eliminate version should get it's own name...
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Nov 26, 2013
rating: V4 6B

Bryce, I like the idea of listing the heel-toe cam as the natural line, maybe name it General Lee Left or something along those lines. Then leave Jeremy's up with a better description, a historical explanation, and saying that it is an eliminate and point out the specific feet that are supposed to be used to make it v9.
By josh villeneuve
From: Enfield, CT
Mar 19, 2014
rating: V7 7A+

"V9 WAY" with feet directly below, felt about v7...but I am on the smaller size so... I second, listing the different variations seperately.