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Jeopardizing access to send a project



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By Brad Caldwell
From Deep in the Jocassee Gorges
Dec 27, 2011

I'm curious as to folks' thoughts on knowingly breaking a state park rule and jeopardizing access for everyone just to send a project...especially after the same person has already been called out for it once or twice before. Am I the only one that thinks that's total douchebaggery? To me its arrogant egotistical selfishness just to chase a grade (which has since been downgraded by 1 or 2 V grades) and send a problem that local hardmen run laps on. Thoughts?

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By Trad Nanny
Dec 27, 2011

What's the park rule?

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By Brad Caldwell
From Deep in the Jocassee Gorges
Dec 27, 2011

Breaking into the park after hours to night climb...and hell yeah I'm biased after helping fight for access to this area for years.

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By germsauce
Dec 27, 2011
Hippos kill people

totally legit. we all need to sacrifice something sometimes. Think of it from the other climber's side, he may never send if you are only thinking about yourself and your own access. you are the one being selfish.

as a compromise you could go in and chip a few holds for him so he sends faster, and thus does not have to enter illegally anymore.


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By Forestvonsinkafinger
From Iowa
Dec 27, 2011

Agreed, access is a gift.

Was at Hueco a month ago and spotted people climbing illegally when I was with a park ranger...she and I both kept our mouths shut and likely thought the same thought:...do these guys really want this place shut down? Everyone there knows the rules like 'em or not.

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By Brad "Stonyman" Killough
Administrator
From Alabama
Dec 27, 2011
Knife Crack

Brad Caldwell wrote:
Breaking into the park after hours to night climb...and hell yeah I'm biased after helping fight for access to this area for years.
+me!

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By Trad Nanny
Dec 28, 2011

Well of course it's douchebaggery, thus I sense a ulterior motive rather than wanting to know our our opinion. What else can you tell us about this scum?

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By Benjamin Chapman
From CA
Dec 28, 2011
Sophie, 3 legged dog, makes her 3rd winter ascent of Mt. San Antonio, this month. A year later, she bagged two ascents in a day, once from Mt. Baldy Village, then from Manker Flats (20 miles & 8k vertical).

Brad.....you're talking in tongues! If you really desire honest options give us the facts. Don't beat around the bush and candy coating things to get responses that support you stance.
*. Where is the problem?
*. What rule is being broken?
*. What's the history of the access issues?
*. What's your involvement with the outlaw?

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By Yarp
Dec 28, 2011

OMFG! Night bouldering!

The end is nigh. He should be arrested and detained indefinitely for his crimes.

Who's the douchbag again? The dude that's out night bouldering or the people that made up a pointless and idiotic rule that you can't touch rock in the park after dark?

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By rock_fencer
From Columbia, SC
Dec 28, 2011
Myself placing a a blue/yellow offset MC to protect between Bolt 2/3 just post crux . <br /> <br />Picture credit goes to eric Singleton, and many thanks to Josh Bagget for the great belay.

Benjamin Chapman wrote:
Brad.....you're talking in tongues! If you really desire honest options give us the facts. Don't beat around the bush and candy coating things to get responses that support you stance. *. Where is the problem? *. What rule is being broken? *. What's the history of the access issues? *. What's your involvement with the outlaw?



not going to get in to this and dont have facts but will offer some background.

Recently an area in NC was brought into the state park system, which means they now enforce entry and exit times. As a part of this there is development of a regional plan concerning all activities in the state park. During this time said person was bouldering after hours and it was detrimentally affecting the negotiations for maintaining current and potentially expanded access, something everyone wants. Thus Brad contacted this person to ask him to stop and remove publishing his "illegal" activities on various websites, not because he cares if someone is bouldering after hours, but because it was negatively affecting the perception of the climbing community at a critical time with the park planning commission.



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By Mike Anderson
From Dayton, OH
Dec 28, 2011

I don't have an opinion on this particular situation, but I will tell you that I know of numerous instances where climbers followed all the rules that the beauraucrats required for years, and they still got the shaft in the end. That will probably be the case here as well.

You could draw two opposing conclusions from this:

1. It doesn't matter how climbers behave, so go aheand and do whatever you can get away with.

2. All the more reason to be first-class users so the beauraucrats will be nice(r) to us.

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