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West Face - Right Side
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El Camino Real 
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Hangover, The 
Jensen's Jaunt 
Last Judgment 
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Toe Tip 
Traitor Horn 
Unknown? 

Jensen's Jaunt 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 500'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: Carl Jensen, Jim Smith and Don McDonald, Aug 1938
Page Views: 5,378
Submitted By: Dpurf on Feb 24, 2006
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Matt on the Money Pitch!!! Carlos on Blaze!!!

Description 

This route is located on the far right side of the West face. Just before the Open Book area.
P1 - Head up easy blocks of rock until you hit a prominent crack. Belay at the base of this crack.
P2 - Continue up this crack / corner and belay just below the roofs.
P3 Climb an offwith crack that can be awkward around the left side of the overhanges, then up the corner to a ledge.
P4 - Continue up the corner system or climb out right onthe upper slabs.


Protection 

Up to 3 or 4 inches.



Photos of Jensen's Jaunt Slideshow Add Photo
Looking down from the top of pitch 1.
Looking down from the top of pitch 1.
@ the 3rd pitch
@ the 3rd pitch
Looking up at pitch 2 from pitch 1 belay.
Looking up at pitch 2 from pitch 1 belay.
William Carlson at the step around near the top of Jensen's Jaunt from May 3 2009
William Carlson at the step around near the top of...
Agina Sedler on pitch two.
Agina Sedler on pitch two.
fourth belay station is just right of this bush behind Mike
BETA PHOTO: fourth belay station is just right of this bush be...
Looking up at the 4th pitch from the bush/tree belay ledge.  Hollow flakes--yikes.
Looking up at the 4th pitch from the bush/tree bel...
Agina Sedler on pitch one with climbers heading to The Edge above her.
Agina Sedler on pitch one with climbers heading to...
Alternate "upper slabs" finish on pitch 4.   Photo credit: Lee Kerley
BETA PHOTO: Alternate "upper slabs" finish on pitch 4. Photo...
Comments on Jensen's Jaunt Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 20, 2013
By Mark L
Jun 3, 2007

A worthy route for a 5.6 leader.

There are 2 ways to start - either start scrambling up the 3rd/4th class from beneath the tree under Coffin Nail and traverse up and right until you are about 100' up (I think) Once you are starting to definitely do 5th class moves you can set up the belay - or alternatively just belay from the ground and do 2 shorter pitches to the traitor horn headwall. The other way to start is to follow the climbers trail past all the west face routes until you pass a corner on your left and see the Open Book to your left. Break out the rope and just start climbing the easy 5th class rock just to your left when you look at the open book after you turn the corner.

The pitch(es) up to the traitor horn belay area are pretty weird - there are several different sections to it that make it interesting. Hand crack, lieback flake, jug holds, good feet, poorer feet... That's the best pitch on the route. Pro can occasionally be challenging perhaps especailly mid and higher up as it gets pretty wide but there are often incut holds behind the flakes.

Essentially the pitch up to the belay near Traitor Horn goes up to and stays on the right side of a huge rock flake that is maybe 100' high and 15' wide.

The second pitch (about 100') starts with a slight upclimb up and slightly left of the belay (small cams) maybe 20' up from the top of the flake you just stayed on the right of. The first real move makes an exciting (if your not good with using your feet yet) 5.5/5.6 traverse for 6 feet or so until you can get onto a slab runway (5.2 maybe) that follows and offwidth crack up for 60' or so until getting to some bushes - go through these and belay at the highest one if you have a 60 meter rope otherwise go higher if you ahve a 50 or your second wont make it to the top on the next lead. This pitch has maybe 15' of moves more than 5.3, but that traverse still makes it special for newer leaders.

Last pitch is nice slabby climbing with some meandering cracks that you weave back and forth to get handholds and place pro in. Just try to keep within 30' or so of the right wall/dihedral the whole time. After about 160' you should see a offwidth crack where the dihedral on the right meets a headwall. You can take this (5.9 lieback I've heard), take a mantle problem to its right about 10' (you don't want to fall, its a reachy move, probably 5.8/5.9) or just go left along the headwall for 20' and around it and your at the same belay as the Lunch Ledge routes end at.

By TinMan92592
Nov 29, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

Third pitch around the corner be sure to bring a #4 (BD) cam. It is quite a drop off deserving protection

By alleyehave
From: San Diego, CA
Jun 23, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

Not a big fan. Found every pitch either akward or bland. Would only do it again as a linkup for something else(Traitor horn).

By Justin Tomlinson
From: Monrovia, CA
Jul 3, 2011

A good climb. I liked the second half of pitch one, and the whole of pitch two on very good rock with very good pro.

Moving around the corner on the third pitch offers exposure where you can place a large cam. As the second, after pulling this cam, you then have to make the akward move that involved some sand in the crack on which i almost slipped.

Take care to protect your second here, if possible, with a second piece after the awkward move. Third pitch didn't offer much to enjoy.

We went out to the slab on the right for the forth pitch. While the protection down low the was slim before reaching the better cracks above, I liked the position on the rock and found the climbing fun and easy.

A good climb!

By Josh Cameron
Aug 31, 2011

The 3rd pitch is one of the best on this route. The most exposure you'll get on this route is stepping up to the crack. True, the second half of the pitch is somewhat mundane, but the first half is one of the reasons to climb this route. And, yes, it is awkward, but fun. Ahh, Tahquitz.

By Chris D
From: the couch
Sep 5, 2011

Took a number 5 camalot with me on this one today, sort of as a joke. By the time I was ready to lead out the fourth, normally easy, pitch, it was pouring rain and windy. Not only was I able to use the #5 at the belay at the top of P2, but it was a real comfort to have it to stuff under the dihedral that is most of P4. Without it, it would have probably been much more tense, as water was running down the slab and pouring off the dihedral in little trickles and waterfalls.

So if you don't mind carrying the club around, you can use a #5 liberally on this route. It's definitely unnecessary. There are gear placements of just about all sizes literally everywhere on this climb, except portions of the dihedral, where the #5 works and small placements would be devious. But the climbing here is usually very easy.

A photoset with a mini-TR here.

By Jeff Scofield
From: Yorba Linda, CA
May 2, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

@ChrisD man great photos thanks for sharing!!! Great job climbing in the rain...Checking out your pics your buddy should invest in some approach shoes I'd hate walking all that way on wet dirt in my climbing shoes....
Jeff

By The Ruin-er
From: CA
Jun 8, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

did this in three pitches, fun just short ;-( the ow pitch is rad and exposed

By Raquel ROCKY Robles
From: Encinitas, CA
Jun 17, 2012

First time on this route. Followed. I loved the step around.

By Will P.
Nov 4, 2012

Bring a #4, and watch out for all the loose junk after the OW. Very fun 5.6.

By Eric "Pig" Varley
Apr 8, 2013

After climbing this and Left Ski Track, I'm convinced that 5.6 is the mentally hardest grade to climb at Tahquitz.

This was a fun route, with some very exciting moves. Nothing is that hard physically, but if you're limit is 5.6 you will have a mentally difficult time with this route.

By Tradoholic
May 20, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

Definitely a fun one, I linked p2 and 3 with a 70m just barely. A #4 C4 will be very helpful for the airy step around. DO IT!