Jenny V4
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| Type: | Boulder, 20 feet |
| Consensus: | V4- [details] |
| FA: | Bernd Zeugswetter and Friends? Sean Denny? |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Sean Denny on Apr 23, 2011 |
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Me on the first ascent.
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Description Sit start matched on the obvious flake. Head up and left using a block and some good edges. Go to the higher flake beneath the tree. Tunnel through the tree to top it out.
Brilliant! A new Santa Barbara classic. Great movement between good holds.
On another note, tread lightly on the block. Hopefully it won't break, but it's flexing a little...
Location Debra Boulder. Start as for Debra but stay left.
Protection Pads are highly recommended as there is a nice pair of boulders to fall into once on the upper face
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Oct 29, 2011
rating: V4+
| After the big starting edge, it's kind of a long way to the next hold. There used to be a gaston jug at some time in the past, but it's gone now. Friends of mine did the problem years ago (with the gaston jug) and called it V4 or so. Now, without said jug, it's purdy powerful. In my opinion, V3 is a bit of a sandbag... at least judging from the the way we were climbing it. Good problem regardless. And yes, some holds are flexing. |
By Sean Denny
From: Los Angeles
Nov 1, 2011
| Yeah, V3 did seem a bit tough for this problem. Unfortunately, I think its substantially size dependent. The second move is pretty tough for the shorter inclined.
In any case, it is a great problem, and I really hope that block doesn't break. |
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