This is a fun route that, at a full 30 meters long, has plenty of varied climbing in its length. As you enter the corridor, walking uphill toward the hump, you'll notice a very clean, glassy wall (The Cement Garden, 5.13) on your left. The 5.10a Crack is just past this glassy panel, and is the long, semi-diagonalling (right to left) crack line splitting the buttress about 15 feet left of a junky corner.
Climb somewhat silty moves off the deck in a faint corner, then step left onto a sloping ledge. From here, the route is obvious: Stay in the crack, taking care with some of the wedged chockstones. A thin-hands crux through a slight bulge gets you to the upper section, nice 5.9+ crack/face climbing on solid rock, protected by nuts and TCUs. Bust a final move to stand up at the base of a clean corner and reach left to a double-bolt anchor with slings. You can use this anchor to toprope The Cement Garden, the 5.13 that climbs the aforementioned Glassy Panel.
A 60-meter rope is mandatory.
Standard rack, with an emphasis on thin-hand-sized cams, and a couple of 3-4" pieces.
|Comments on Jenga Buttress Crack aka 10a Crack
|By Michael Schneiter|
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Oct 4, 2007
The name of this route is Jenga Buttress Crack. It is excellent.
From: Glenwood Springs CO
Jun 2, 2011
It was great, and a single rack from green c3 to a #5 is way more than enough to zip this climb up and have a few extra cams.
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 28, 2013
Very fun movement. 2 stars due to junky rock in spots. Highly recommend anyway, just saying don't expect splitter stone, and I provisionally disagree on singles. If badass, singles. If not, dubs.