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 ADVANCED
Narrows Proper
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Art of Breaking, The S 
Cantaloupe S 
Cement Garden, The T,TR 
Chiroptophobia T 
Choss Ninja S 
Fudge Judge T 
Jenga Buttress Crack aka 10a Crack T 
Other People's Crack T 
People's Crack T 
PWTHFRWDLGS T 
Red Faction S 
Screwheads S 
Sloppy Seconds S 
Snap, Crackle, Pop T 
Village Idiot, The T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Jenga Buttress Crack aka 10a Crack 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Matt Samet, Luke Laeser, BJ Sbarra
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,083
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Jul 6, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Jenga Butress Crack is the wide crack on the right...

Description 

This is a fun route that, at a full 30 meters long, has plenty of varied climbing in its length. As you enter the corridor, walking uphill toward the hump, you'll notice a very clean, glassy wall (The Cement Garden, 5.13) on your left. The 5.10a Crack is just past this glassy panel, and is the long, semi-diagonalling (right to left) crack line splitting the buttress about 15 feet left of a junky corner.

Climb somewhat silty moves off the deck in a faint corner, then step left onto a sloping ledge. From here, the route is obvious: Stay in the crack, taking care with some of the wedged chockstones. A thin-hands crux through a slight bulge gets you to the upper section, nice 5.9+ crack/face climbing on solid rock, protected by nuts and TCUs. Bust a final move to stand up at the base of a clean corner and reach left to a double-bolt anchor with slings. You can use this anchor to toprope The Cement Garden, the 5.13 that climbs the aforementioned Glassy Panel.

A 60-meter rope is mandatory.


Protection 

Standard rack, with an emphasis on thin-hand-sized cams, and a couple of 3-4" pieces.



Photos of Jenga Buttress Crack aka 10a Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Abbe following Jenga Buttress in the Notch.
Abbe following Jenga Buttress in the Notch.
Comments on Jenga Buttress Crack aka 10a Crack Add Comment
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By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Oct 4, 2007

The name of this route is Jenga Buttress Crack. It is excellent.

By martinharris
From: Glenwood Springs CO
Jun 2, 2011

It was great, and a single rack from green c3 to a #5 is way more than enough to zip this climb up and have a few extra cams.

By JMo
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 28, 2013

Very fun movement. 2 stars due to junky rock in spots. Highly recommend anyway, just saying don't expect splitter stone, and I provisionally disagree on singles. If badass, singles. If not, dubs.