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[Jelly Bellies] is a fun little route that doesn't get much attention. To find this route, hike the trail to the [Contest Wall] and head north along the base. After about 50 yards, there will be a pillar lying on the ground to your right. At this point, the cliff has a large dark corner/recess. Standing in this recess, look at the north-facing wall. There are two routes that share the first two bolts. The left hand route is an 11c. The right hand route is [Jelly Bellies].
Hike up through the first two bolts, and then trend right towards the third. Above the third bolt, work your way into the hands, fists, and sometimes OW crack (depending on your various personal measurements). If you think a limestone OW sounds cool, just wait... the kicker is THERE IS SOME CACTUS IN IT!!!!
The key to getting rid of cactus (if it is stuck in your hand) when you can't get a no hands rest is to flick your wrist really hard and hope it flies out. Be sure to warn your belayer.
Towards the top, step right out of the crack and pull some great face moves to the anchor. Enjoy.
7 bolts and anchors.
|By Edward Jenner|
Oct 21, 2002
I've only TR'd this line, but it seemed to me that staying on the face to the left of the crack is both the more direct line and more enjoyable. I remember the holds being sharp though, so maybe a duel with the cacti is less fingertip-shredding.