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Jellicle Cats 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: RMW and ABS, 1999
Page Views: 3,597
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Aug 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (74)
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Sizing up the crux.

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  • Description 

    The longest line on Catslab and my personal favorite, Jellicle Cats fires up the middle in either one long pitch or in two. Start with the Gumby Cat and keep on going. 5.10 cruxes arise right off the Gumby anchor and again in three more places. The harder of the cruxes is in getting out of a thin tips-only crack, and this an airy, committing move that relies on precise foot-work. Good stone, fun moves, and a wee bit bold all add up to three stars.

    Protection 

    QDs only. This line tops out 140 feet above the deck and can be rapped with double ropes or in two stages with a 60 m rope.


    Photos of Jellicle Cats Slideshow Add Photo
    Christa Cline tip-toeing up the thin crack, belayed by Mike Amato.
    Christa Cline tip-toeing up the thin crack, belaye...
    Phil Persson entering the crux.  You can JUST combine the pitches with a 70m rope. 4-2-11.
    Phil Persson entering the crux. You can JUST comb...
    On easier ground above the crux slab moves.
    On easier ground above the crux slab moves.

    Comments on Jellicle Cats Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 13, 2013
    By Joe Keyser
    From: Scottsdale, AZ
    Aug 2, 2001

    I'm definitely not an expert on ratings, but, I find it hard to believe that this route is considered 10c. I might feel otherwise without all the bolts though...:) But, I climbed it in early spring, thought it was more like 5.8/9ish at most.... Who knows, maybe it was just an uncharacteristically (spelling??) good day for me?? Fun face climb though, very well-protected.
    By Richard M. Wright
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Aug 2, 2001

    Must have been a good day or the wrong route. I have never, until now, heard anyone call this 5.8 or 5.9.
    By Richard M. Wright
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Aug 2, 2001

    Hmmm..... Went back to my own notebook from 4/4/98. I had given Jellicle Cats 5.10a(?b). Perhaps we should either stick with original or split the difference. The 5.10c came out of Mark Rolofson's book.
    By Sean Colaroso
    Aug 5, 2001

    I think that the Jellicle Cat was a fun route it starts of pretty easy than towards the top it gets harder and gets hard to find holds, and I recommend a 60 meter rope,
    By Joe Keyser
    From: Scottsdale, AZ
    Aug 6, 2001

    Guess I'd have to go back and try it again, maybe it is harder than I remember. One thing that sticks out in my mind are all the cool little quartz crystals on the rock that you get to pull/step on. Pretty neat... There's a bolted route on the right side (climbers right) of the crag which goes up on slightly overhanging jugs....in that way, different from the other mostly slab routes. It was pretty fun, but has some loose-ish rock, and is kinda dirty. I think the book gave it a 10d which may be a bit generous? Not sure of the name, but, look out for loose stuff... But, isn't the crag closed, or??
    By Richard M. Wright
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Aug 7, 2001

    Catslab was not closed to climbing as of 8/4/01.
    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Mar 5, 2002
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    I'd have to agree with Joe Keyser, 9. Much of this slab seems overrated in difficulty, though. However, if you climbed it climbing the shortest line 'tween the bolts, ya might eek out a 10a, but you'd miss all these obvious holds....

    Edit: went back on an off day 9 years later, and I think the route has lost some of the little edges that originally made it feel more like a 9. Sometimes, slab routes will do that.
    By Guy H.
    From: Fort Collins CO
    May 9, 2005

    You can lower off this climb at (140ft ???) and the rest of the climbs on the Catslab with a 70m rope. The quick draws must be cleaned.

    Please knot the end of your rope, as your rope stretch and rope length may vary.
    By Nathaniel Osenga
    Jul 22, 2008

    First, nice climb. Crux for me was just above the first clip. Though, I tried to go around right rather than up the crack on the left.

    A word on rope length. I have a 70m and it will not allow a full rappel to the deck. Either double rope rap down or tie stoppers on one rope, rap to the chains at the top of Gumby Cats, reset a rap there and finish the rest of the way. Good luck.
    By Dale D
    From: Parker, CO
    Mar 29, 2010
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Climbed it today in one long pitch. I used a 70m 9.2 rope (read strechy) and it got me down to the ledge just off the ground. Had to do 4 feet of "down climbing." I would put the first crux at 10a. I have done lots of slab all over the country including pure friction in North Carolina at Sone Mountain. Comparing, I think there are a couple of 10a moves after you clip the first bolt from the top of Gumby Cat.
    By Luke Clarke
    From: Golden
    Mar 15, 2011
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Maybe the best pitch on the crag (but I haven't attempted the 11).
    By Ken McVicker
    Mar 15, 2012

    I climbed this with a friend. He lead it, then I lowered him to the mid anchor. He belayed me from the ground to the top and back to the ground. I then lowered him from the mid anchor. It worked out great with a 70m rope.
    By Erik Hatlestad
    Mar 21, 2012

    Don't do the Gumby Cat and Jellicle Cats in 1 pitch even with a 70m rope. My buddy and I being the geniuses that we are thought we could. We were a good 7 feet short even with rope stretch. Play it safe and do this in 2 pitches. Better to be safe than sorry, guys.
    By Parker Wrozek
    Aug 13, 2012

    Erik...A 70m is just fine for doing it in one pitch. Just rap off in 2 pitches.... If your partner wants to TR the route, belay from the anchor or from Gumby Cat anchor like Ken did and then finish with a rap to the ground.
    By ChefMattThaner
    From: Lakewood, co
    Oct 13, 2013
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    This route is a lot of fun. There are several ways up it, and either of them make for one of the best routes on this crag. I only had a 60m rope, so I simply took about 25ft of 8mm accessory cord with me, rappelled down to the first clip that is about 10ft off the ground, simply untied from the rope, and rapped down the accessory cord which I looped through the first bolt hanger. Not exactly the text book way to get off, but it will work if you don't have a 70m or don't want to mess around with doing this in 2 pitches.