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Jell-O Brand Napalm 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Richard Berk
Page Views: 1,154
Submitted By: Alan Nelson on Feb 21, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: Above the crux.
Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the strikingly obvious crack system just around the corner to the right of "Resolution". It is thinner, steeper, and more difficult than it looks. While you can generally lace it up with thin gear, expect to develop a major pump. Three stars for great movement, continuity, involved sequences, and good holds. The VS rating comes from a pair of bowling ball sized blocks hanging in the crack at 2/3 height, and the 5' high detached flake precariously balanced on a 3" ledge at the top. You don't need to touch these features, but you'll need to be very careful to avoid them. 30 seconds with a crowbar and a fixed anchor on top would make turn it into a user-friendly classic.


Protection 

Wires, TCUs, cams to 1.5".



Comments on Jell-O Brand Napalm Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Jul 12, 2008

david, your problem with redundancy stems from your reliance on Hubble's guidebook. The thing is, ever since he started publishing guides, Peter would name any crack that looked climbable, without knowing if it had actually been done. The name of his first book was The Brown Book of Lies.

Alan was good to warn folks of the loose block problem with the X rating. Alan Nelson was also the best thing that ever happened to climbing in Golden. I led this myself in 1991. If he wanted to name the route Thin Crack, then I'm down with that!

Since Alan died last December your blog makes you look like the kind of guy who likes to kick people when they are down. Are you really that kind of guy? Remove your comment and then I'll take this off too.

By richard berk
From: Denver, CO
Jul 14, 2008

I put up Jell-o Brand Napalm which certainly was not 11 or X - but I could not swear, using this description, that it is the route in question.