Jeff Loves Eileen is a very popular beginner climb on a slabby face - probably the most popular route at Little Falls. The route follows a diagonal crack that climbs more like a face climb than a crack climb. Good hands in the crack and small edges for feet are the name of the game, with a few jams near the top. A good choice for new climbers, or for a first trad lead.
The first large slab to the left of the large metal tower is the Jeff Loves Eileen face. The graffiti for which it's named is mostly obscured now. The face is split by two prominent, diagonal cracks; Jeff Loves Eileen is the one on the right, Goat Crack (5.2) is on the left.
TR using VERY long webbing/static, or better, use the many available gear placements. The route is G rated on lead.
I used my 50 meter 8MM static line for a general anchor to the top of Jeff Loves Eileen face. With the rope doubled from the nearest large tree there was plenty left over. Watch out for sharp edges. Use directionals to position the anchor over your chosen climb.
There are a couple of bomber nut and tri cam placements right on the edge for an anchor at the top of the crack. Or if you want the anchor in the center of the climb a #2 Camalot, an offset nut and a yellow alien will make a good 3 point anchor with a standard length cordalette.
By J. Serpico From: Saratoga County, NY Apr 21, 2014 rating: 5.64c14V12S 4b
No way this is a 5.4. I think people rate these based on top roping. Gear is great, angle is low, but the moves near the top are harder than 5.4. Definitely a good lead. Also, the official guide for the area rates it at 5.6.
The original guidebook lists this climb at 5.4. It is generally recognized now that the crux at the top is 5.5 thus making the climb 5.5. The gear is excellent and as of May 2014 there are bolted anchors at the top.