This route never gets the credit it deserves... It is short and doesn't look inviting but the moves are fun and it has a great flow...
Start on the left and hand traverse right to a jug...Make the second clip and get ready for some awesome moves...I won't give play by play beta but you head up and right using crimps and big slopers... Careful making the 3rd clip its a bad place to hit the ground...A heel toe cam helps on this clip...As you top out a few kneebars are possible...clip the quick clips and run another lap on it ...You will want to....
Right in the middle of the cliff...Just right of Oby-won..
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Campton, NH May 2, 2007
I just climbed this route today and I think that it does get the credit it deserves. I'm not so sure if I'll get on it again. Plus, you have a number of classic routes of the same grade just a bit up the hill...
(In the interest of full disclosure, I did get slapped around a bit on this.)
I've got to agree with Lee on this one. I thought the route was pretty cool even due to it's short length. The moves do flow pretty well, and it just seems to put your body where it should be. The route offers some variety in the style of moves and holds. Recomended.
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Aug 19, 2007
Rock jerky? Its not too bad at all. If i remember correctly you can reach the first clip from the boulder. An attentive belayer or a stick clipped second bolt will sort that out, but the clipping stance for the second bolt was good too. Ive worked the route a lot and grew to love it (eventually) I never sent, but I thought it was an awesome little route, not sketchy fall potential and worth trying.
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Jan 4, 2008
I stick clip the first 2 bolts cause the first one is right there and the second is still not too high... anyway the third bolt could be bad if you blew it so i do a toe hook or heel toe camish move with my left foot and get my right hand on the big shitty sloper up and right.... at that point you are locked in to make the clip and you just have a few more hard moves to the top... a nice kneebar at the end if you want it...
i really like the moves on this route...
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Nov 19, 2009
a little beta footage for those who want it... i do things a little different than this chap but it give you ideas...
So many times have I walked by this and said to myself, some day......
Well some day was today, and it should have been sooner! If you like bouldery, tricky strenuous climbing, this is an awesome climb. And definitely safely bolted. Easy stick clip on first (and second if you want it, though you clip this from a jug). Third clip is tricky but with a good belayer you should be fine.
Clipping the anchors would give some bad rope drag, so I jumped and then lowered off the biner on the third bolt.
Sent this yesterday after a long battle... I'd tried it a year ago, when I hadn't done any 12's before. This was my 4th day on over the past year, and it went down 2nd go of the day.
I thought the route was really awkward at first, and I never worked the top enough to find any good beta (just grovelled around on redpoint). But the moves to the lip (the big jug-pinch) I got dialed, and I think it flows pretty well.
I stick-clipped the second bolt, which makes the fall better, but impedes the deadpoint to the massive first jug a bit. For the third bolt I have a RH on the top-right corner of the big block, and a left heel wedged over the massive jug - makes clipping super-casual (got the beta from a super-strong friend who flashed it). The fall from above the third bolt is safe.
In conclusion, I think with the right beta, it flows well, is powerful, has good-quality rock and great holds, and overall is a really good route. With bad beta it is super-awkward, off-balance, and weird.
Didn't see that kneebar at the end, Lee - perhaps you can message me?
I've heard there's kneebar beta for the middle - to clip the second bolt, but I just used a double heel-toe cam to rest off the big jug.
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Jun 29, 2010
just posted a vid of my good friend jeff to the description, check him out!